The Romantic Legacy and the Sense of Rebellion
During the 2025 Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Dries Van Noten FW25 collection was presented, marking a significant new chapter for the Belgian brand. This collection, crafted by the house’s creative studio and led by Julian Klausner, signals a shift in the brand’s direction following Dries Van Noten’s departure.
A New Chapter for Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner was recently appointed creative director, stepping in after Dries Van Noten’s retirement in March 2024. Van Noten’s career spanned 38 years, with his final runway show in June 2024, showcasing the Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The FW25 collection, therefore, marks Klausner’s first major contribution, offering a glimpse of his vision and the direction he aims to take the brand in.
Inspiration: The Wild Boys by William S. Burroughs
The FW25 collection draws inspiration from William S. Burroughs’ 1971 novel The Wild Boys. This complex, visionary work explores themes of rebellion, sexual freedom, and the dismantling of social conventions. The novel stands as a manifesto of counterculture, a critique of materialism, and a rejection of capitalist repression in the 20th century. Burroughs, a leading figure of the Beat Generation, has influenced artists like David Bowie and Patti Smith, and now serves as Klausner’s muse. He translates Burroughs’ bohemian and decadent aesthetic into a contemporary visual language.
Aesthetic Vision of the Collection
The campaign for the FW25 collection begins with the statement: “When the elegance of another era meets the present moment, various allusions resonate with surprising effect.” Accompanying this message are photographs directed by Willy Vanderperre. The collection itself presents a dialogue between the past and the present, blending refinement with excess. Dark tones, dominated by black, are contrasted with striking details, such as a large white flower or a coat revealing a floral purple lining—symbols of drama and aesthetic duality.
The images alternate between industrial settings and intimate interiors, evoking the decaying urban landscape of Antwerp. Featured in the campaign are young contemporary dandies, referred to as “luxury vagabonds,” who combine both fragility and rebellion.
Dries Van Noten FW25: Collection Details
The FW25 collection pays homage to complexity and romance. Models wear Edwardian coats, structured scarves tied around the neck or head, oversized suits reinterpreted with tailored precision, and romantic shirts adorned with oversized bows. Accessories like floral brooches, leather gloves, decorative feathers, and ribbons used as belts complete the look. This combination fuses retro decadence with a contemporary edge. Additionally, unexpected layers, such as tights and socks paired with tailored wool shorts, reinforce the concept of a “poetic error,” giving the collection both uniqueness and allure.
Contrasts and Complementarities
The FW25 collection explores how contrasts can become complementary. Male archetypes are redefined, merging strength with vulnerability. The materials also reflect this dialogue: wool, leather, and feathers combine in unexpected layers. While dark tones dominate, vibrant and floral details punctuate the collection, such as a black jacket that conceals a purple embroidery.
The Future of the Brand Under Klausner’s Leadership
With this collection, Julian Klausner proves his ability to uphold the legacy of Dries Van Noten. While maintaining the brand’s renowned artistic and sartorial foundations, Klausner introduces a fresh, romantic sensibility. It remains to be seen whether this ethereal vision will become the hallmark of his future collections. However, it’s clear that the blend of rebellion and refinement will continue to be the core of the brand.
In an era where the arts constantly seek new aesthetics and meanings, Dries Van Noten proves to be a brand capable of staying relevant. It continues to explore uncharted territories without compromising its identity.
