The Fracture of Form, Color, and the Perception of Time
Det Blev Sent has unveiled its latest FW25 collection, continuing its aesthetic and conceptual exploration. We had the opportunity to preview the lookbook and discover the project that will accompany the looks for the Fall/Winter 2025-2026 season. The brand recently made a stop in Paris, presenting the collection in its showrooms, further cementing its role in the international avant-garde fashion scene.
The era we are living in is marked by crucial historical moments that inevitably influence fashion as well. Cinema, art, and contemporary visual culture are shaping a new aesthetic movement: the “neo dark aesthetic”, a “black mood” that draws from the current socio-political climate, shaped by extreme capitalism and widespread psychological violence.
This trend manifests as a reinterpretation of elements already seen in the 20th century, such as psychological thrillers and classic film noir. Think of Joker, Fight Club, and, more recently, American Psycho, which is set to be remade by Luca Guadagnino. Just like Psycho and American Psycho, the FW25 collection explores the duality and fragmentation of identity, transforming garments into mutant, unstable organisms that continuously evolve, much like the mind and memory in these cinematic references.
Aesthetic and Social Critique
Beyond its deep aesthetic interest, Det Blev Sent‘s collection serves as a critique of capitalist superficiality and the new hedonism that defines contemporary masculinity. Today, social media is flooded with content centered around body worship and the spectacle of street style, phenomena that inevitably influence the language of fashion.
Just as Douglas Gordon slows Psycho down to the point of incomprehensibility, the collection deconstructs the concept of clothing, dissolving its original reference. The materials evolve over time, introducing a sense of impermanence and instability.
To fully understand this collection, one must consider the current cultural climate and the challenges faced by young designers. Fashion becomes a dialogue and a mirror, reflecting the social issues that new generations seek to expose, unafraid to lay themselves bare.
Urban and Genderless Aesthetic
Det Blev Sent embraces a strongly urban, industrial, and street-style aesthetic, incorporating genderless details that reflect a commitment to individuality and expressive freedom, diverging from conformity to social norms. This collection redefines the image of a contemporary dandy, celebrating individuality through deconstructed silhouettes and continuously evolving materials.
“Fracture”: The Collection as an Experimental Laboratory
The collection’s title, “Fracture”, embodies an ongoing exploration of transformation, perspective, and ambiguity. Drawing inspiration from the works of Hitchcock and Gordon, the designer has created a collection that challenges conventional understanding, blending deconstruction and reinvention to produce garments that evolve and reveal new meanings over time.
In 1993, Douglas Gordon‘s 24 Hour Psycho dissected Hitchcock’s film into fragments, reconstructing it to extract new interpretations. This approach is mirrored in the FW25 collection, where the deconstruction of reality translates into a color palette inspired by these cinematic works:
- Warm blacks, browns, and burgundies, echoing the tones of Hitchcock’s Psycho;
- Cool blacks and silvery grays, derived from the aesthetic of Gordon’s 24 Hour Psycho.
Despite their violent and fragmented narratives, both the film and the collection maintain a quiet, timeless beauty.
Material Manipulation: Between Deconstruction and Reassembly
Just as Gordon reinterprets Hitchcock, this collection unveils new layers through material manipulation. To obscure the meaning of color, the garments were bleached, re-dyed, and coated with wax, allowing them to evolve over time. The overdyeing process revealed unexpected shades, gradually emerging through each treatment.
Some pieces were enhanced with a mixture of paint and wax, adding textural layers of color to the fabric. The bomber jacket and trousers underwent a treatment with dense wax paste, which cracked and naturally deteriorated over time. The iconic leather hooded jacket and the DBS bomber were deconstructed and reassembled through patchwork, creating entirely new forms and structures.
Fracture as a Form of Beauty
The concept of “fracture” in this collection is reminiscent of the Japanese art of Kintsugi, where the broken pieces of ceramics are lacquered with gold, silver, or platinum powder, highlighting imperfections rather than concealing them. The fracture, therefore, becomes a symbol of strength and uniqueness.
This principle is reflected in fashion as well: Det Blev Sent‘s garments do not conceal their transformations but make them a distinctive feature. The dialogue between fabric and materials creates new connections, just as the dialogue between past, present, and future allows fashion to evolve continually.
A New Fashion Language
The FW25 collection by Det Blev Sent represents the synthesis of contemporary society, shaped by ongoing economic, social, and environmental crises that fragment reality. Today’s designers must reassemble these fragments, imbuing them with new meanings—not by dwelling on nostalgia, but by looking beyond darkness to find new light, new colors, and new perspectives.
This collection is not just an aesthetic exercise but a manifesto of resistance and transformation, redefining the relationship between fashion, culture, and contemporary identity.
