The Raw Minimalism of Materials and the Soul
Calvin Klein Collection returns to the runway after ten years with the FW25 collection designed by Veronica Leoni, the brand’s new creative director.
A Highly Anticipated Comeback at NYFW
Recently, New York Fashion Week has seen few debuts, and all eyes were on this event. The brand founded by Calvin Richard Klein belongs to that generation of immigrants who, in the Bronx alongside Ralph Lauren, wrote the history of American fashion. Founded in 1968, the brand is universally known for its jeans and iconic underwear line.
After facing near bankruptcy, the brand was acquired by PVH (Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation) in 2002. The Calvin Klein Collection line, created in 1994, was discontinued in 2017 after Raf Simons took on the role of creative director in 2016. Its return to the runway marks a significant turning point for a brand that, like Ralph Lauren, has influenced American fashion and become an integral part of its identity.
Calvin Klein Collection FW25: Celebrities and Icons in the Front Row
To celebrate this grand return, several legendary figures of the brand were present. Starting with the founder himself, Calvin Klein, at 82 years old, to Kate Moss, one of the top models who, in the ‘90s, elevated the brand to new heights with bold and often controversial advertising campaigns. Christy Turlington, the face of the famous Eternity campaign, was also in attendance, along with Alexander Skarsgård, Cooper Koch, and Bad Bunny. On the runway, Kendall Jenner stood out among the models.
Veronica Leoni: A New Chapter for Calvin Klein Collection FW25
At 41, Veronica Leoni brings an impressive background: she has worked with Jil Sander, The Row, and Phoebe Philo’s Céline—brands that have built their reputations on neo-minimalism and precision tailoring. Leoni also founded her own brand, Quira, which is now on hold as she fully dedicates herself to Calvin Klein.
When a brand is relaunched or entrusted to a new creative direction, comparisons with the past are inevitable. Leoni has chosen to start fresh and write a new chapter. The only element she retrieved from the archives is a slingback ballerina flat.
The Language of the FW25 Collection
What emerges from the show is a retrospective journey into the designer’s past. Her stylistic language is evident, yet it does not fully take flight—understandable, given this is her debut.
The co-ed collection showcased a mix of carefully designed pieces: skinny pants, oversized jeans, and crisp white shirts paired with bombers, creating a universal look that transitions effortlessly from day to night.
Color palette is neutral: gray, black, and brown, with red accents. The only pattern present is a plaid design used for the shirts. Minimalism reigns supreme, with meticulous attention to silhouette. However, it does not introduce anything groundbreaking compared to recent trends. Leoni shifts the focal point below the waist and elongates sleeves, while shoulders are either structured or left bare, as seen in a sleek tube dress.
Tailoring and Accessories: The Focus of the Collection
The study of silhouette and tailoring is at the heart of FW25. A standout look includes a gray tailored suit with a knee-length skirt, clearly referencing businesswear. Jackets become an obsession, an essential part of the collection.
Accessories play a crucial role: men’s shoes feature a broad sole, while women’s shoes have a comfortable heel. Among the bags, the evening clutch shaped like a CK One bottle stands out, available in several versions: adorned with Swarovski crystals, in white, and in gold. This item is poised to become iconic.
Fabrics are treated as raw materials. The only sequined dress in the collection is a long tube gown, embroidered with thousands of discs that transform it into a unique, textured material.
An Image That Will Mark History
One of the most striking images on social media features a warm handshake between Veronica Leoni and Calvin Klein, with the designer visibly moved. A small but significant detail catches the eye: a fabric chain holding a pair of tiny scissors—a symbol of her precision and sartorial discipline.
The Future of Calvin Klein Collection
Veronica Leoni brought her signature style to the runway, reflecting passion, sacrifice, and dedication to tailoring. However, the strict, structured approach of the collection seems somewhat disconnected from the essence of the brand.
Sooner or later, Calvin Klein’s archive will need to be reopened and reinterpreted—not with nostalgia, but with awareness. A brand’s past cannot be erased; it lives in the collective memory. The same applies to a designer’s personal history, as demonstrated by this collection.
The question remains: where has the American Beauty of Calvin Klein gone? In the ‘90s, it was a cultural phenomenon—today, it feels absent. While the future of the brand is yet to be written, the real challenge lies in finding a common thread between past and present. The FW25 collection does not bare the body but the designer’s soul. An extreme exercise in subtraction and materiality that, for now, feels incomplete.
