The Bohemian Spirit in a Rebellious and Decadent London
The Burberry FW25 runway show marked the official end of London Fashion Week. This event, which captured the attention of journalists, celebrities, and fashion enthusiasts, represented a significant moment for the British brand.
As London Fashion Week came to a close, all eyes now turn to Milan Fashion Week, which promises to dominate the global fashion scene in the days to come.
The British capital, while showing signs of recovery, continues to face uncertainties that linger in the air, much like the rain that unexpectedly falls, rushing away toward new adventures.
A Historic Venue that Speaks to the Present
When it comes to the venue, Burberry did not introduce any significant changes. As in previous editions, the show took place among the majestic white pillars of Tate Britain, one of Britain’s cultural landmarks. The brand chose to cover the space with a deep blue carpet, echoing the brand’s visual identity.
The Duveen Galleries, located within this historic institution, served as the heart of the event. These galleries were made possible through the generous donation of Sir Joseph Duveen, a famous art dealer. Built between 1930 and 1937, the architecture of the galleries is grand, with high walls and large windows that allow abundant natural light to flood the space, creating the perfect backdrop for a runway show that aimed to be a fusion of past and present.
Celebrities and Hype: A Recipe that Works… Until a Certain Point
The celebrity-filled guest list added to the electric atmosphere of the event. From actors to influencers, the names were numerous and international. However, despite the excitement and hype generated by the appearance of these personalities, it is no longer enough to guarantee immediate sales. The fashion market has changed its rules: today, the desire to buy does not stem solely from famous faces, but from a brand’s ability to tell authentic stories that create a genuine emotional connection with the audience.
Daniel Lee and His Vision: A New Chapter for Burberry
Daniel Lee, Burberry’s creative director for two years, is working hard to give the brand a new direction. After struggling to establish itself in the “quiet luxury” trend, which was not well received by the public, Lee has made a radical choice for his FW25 collection: moving away from the city lights to embrace the beauty and simplicity of the British countryside. This powerful contrast between urban hustle and rural serenity has inspired the entire collection.
Imagine a wealthy class leaving the city to retreat to the expansive lands of rural London. The colors and patterns that dominate these spaces, where velvet wallpaper is often a central feature, became the leitmotif of the collection. This material, which has found new life in the fashion world, was used to evoke a warm, inviting atmosphere reminiscent of the country homes of Britain. This reference to nature and the countryside tradition became a significant part of every piece in the collection.
Saltburn and Decadent Aesthetics: A Cinematic Reference
The Burberry FW25 collection also drew inspiration from the 2023 film Saltburn, a psychological thriller directed by Emerald Fennell. Known for its opulent and decadent aesthetics, the film explores themes of social class and economic disparity. Within a seemingly perfect world, the film reveals the tensions between appearance and reality, privilege and madness. Lee adopts the same approach, reflecting this social satire in his collection with garments that are both narrative-driven and strongly evocative.
Velvets and Fringes: A Return to Bold Embellishments
In line with current trends, Burberry has definitively moved away from the concept of quiet luxury, with which it struggled to connect, in favor of embracing bold embellishments, patterns, and luxurious fabrics that dominate the runway today. Velvet takes center stage in the collection, with its brilliance coming alive in vivid shades such as yellow, blue, and red—colors that contrast sharply with the darker tones present throughout.
Fringes are the beating heart of the collection, with hems that are shredded and frayed. A perfect example is the dress worn by Naomi Campbell, who strutted down the runway in a fringed skirt paired with a cropped jacket and a belt cinching her waist. The burgundy patterns and British brocades add a touch of heritage, but with a modern interpretation that appeals to today’s fashion audience.
Burberry Man: Comfort Meets Style
The men’s collection for Burberry FW25 offers elegant yet comfortable pieces perfect for the contemporary man. Among the standout items are oversized sweaters and leather bomber coats, which combine comfort and style effortlessly. For more formal evenings, the collection offers velvet suits in striking colors, paired with turtlenecks—an ideal choice for those seeking a sophisticated yet relaxed look. The color palette for men is predominantly dark, punctuated by bold flashes of color, much like the sun breaking through the clouds on a stormy Yorkshire day.
Also featured are jodhpurs, the iconic equestrian trousers, which are paired with leather boots and tailored jackets, paying homage to tradition while giving it a modern twist.
Burberry Faces Challenges: Uncertain Future Ahead
In the third quarter of 2024, Burberry recorded a decline in sales, with retail revenues reaching £659 million (approximately $816 million), down from £706 million during the same period the previous year. This figure reflects an obvious difficulty for the British luxury house, which has seen its economic performance dip despite Daniel Lee’s efforts. His mission to revitalize the brand is still far from complete. The theme of the collection seems more like an excuse to justify design choices than a deeply explored narrative.
The Phoenix Symbol: A Sign of Hope
Sinéad O’Connor’s song Troy, chosen as the soundtrack for the show, represents a symbol of rebirth. The phrase “You will rise, You’ll return. The phoenix from the flame” evokes the eternal cycle of death and rebirth, a concept mirrored in Burberry’s own evolution. However, as in any storm, it is not only the captain who navigates the ship—it’s the entire crew that makes the difference. Just as in this metaphor, only with time and constant effort will Burberry be able to rise again and return to the forefront of the fashion scene.
BURBERRY FW25: An Industry in Search of Identity
London Fashion Week showed both light and shadow, with Burberry FW25 at a crossroads. Despite some interesting elements and moments of great style, the FW25 collection failed to establish a strong narrative around the brand. Burberry’s future will depend on its ability to find a unique identity that can respond to the economic and creative challenges of an ever-evolving industry. Only with time and solid work will the brand return to dominance on international runways.
