Different Cultures and New Ideas in Global Fashion
The Alaïa FW25 collection debuted with great success at Paris Fashion Week, bringing a wave of creativity and innovation under the artistic direction of Pieter Mulier. With this new collection, Mulier continues to reshape the story of the iconic fashion house, which has undergone a transformation under his leadership. Following a string of successes, the designer has taken the brand to a new chapter, making his runway shows some of the most highly anticipated events of this Paris Fashion Week.
Alaïa’s communication strategy contributed to creating an air of suspense, avoiding traditional live broadcasts and instead choosing to present the event through a meticulously crafted video that amplified the emotions of what was unfolding backstage. This innovative approach has further solidified Alaïa as one of the most exciting and revolutionary brands in the Paris fashion scene.
Part of the Richemont Group, one of the giants in luxury, Alaïa continues to be a symbol of elegance and sophistication. FW25 collection represents a perfect fusion of geographies, histories, and international cultures, creating an aesthetic that challenges traditional fashion conventions.
The pieces from the collection have become true wearable sculptures, framing the female figure in a unique harmony of tradition and innovation. One recurring theme that stands out is the framing of the female face: each look is designed to surround the face, almost as if it were a living painting, lending each model an air of elegance and mystery.
Unique Location and Atmosphere of the Show
The FW25 runway show took place inside the Alaïa atelier, located in the heart of the 11th arrondissement of Paris. This location was not a random choice: the atelier is not just the brand’s historical home, but also a symbolic space marking a new phase for the house.
Design and atmosphere of the event were enhanced by sculptures by artist Mark Manders, which created a fascinating contrast with Mulier’s creations, giving the show a surreal and artistic flair. Every corner of the atelier seemed designed to reflect the fusion of fashion and art, two worlds seamlessly blended together.
The show’s soundtrack was created specifically for the Liefde exhibition. Composer Gustave Rudman created an original piece performed by soprano Fatma Saïd, with lyrics by Khalil Gibran.
Song, titled “Aatini al-Nay wa-Ghanni”, added an emotional layer to the show, accompanying the models in an almost mystical atmosphere. Energetic and captivating music, combined with the sculptures decorating the location, transformed the runway show into a sensory experience where fashion blended with culture, music, and visual art.
The Evolution of Sculpture in Fashion
A key feature of the FW25 collection is the application of sculpture to fashion. Mulier has skillfully translated the art of sculpture into fashion, focusing on intricate details and materials. Each piece in the collection resembles a sculpture to wear, carefully crafted down to the smallest detail. Pleats, draping, padding, curves, fringes, and circular structures are just a few of the elements that define Alaïa FW25. Every garment seems to come to life, thanks to the meticulous attention given to the details.
Another noticeable detail is the use of circular ovals that frame the faces of the models, creating an almost hypnotic effect. These headdress-like accessories are made from transparent wool tops, offering an innovative take on traditional styles.
Among the standout pieces are the padded coats, crafted from faux leather with balloon-shaped necklines, merging the concept of voluminosity with sophisticated aesthetics. Other key pieces include tailored blazers and woven leather tops, showcasing the brand’s mastery in garment construction.
Cultural Influences in the FW25 Collection
Alaïa FW25 is a collection that looks to the world, drawing inspiration from various cultures and traditions. Mulier doesn’t limit himself to an eclectic interpretation of these styles but instead reinterprets cultural forms in a new dimension of space and time.
The collection reflects a strong connection to North African, U.S., and Bolivian cultures, creating a unique fusion that never feels forced or out of place. Instead, the garments express a modern reinterpretation of styles that, while maintaining their original essence, adapt to contemporary sensibilities.
For example, Hawaiian skirts and headdresses become central elements in an interpretation that doesn’t distort but rather reinvents the aesthetic of these traditions. One such example is the first look, featuring a “boudin” around the head, a detail that recalls tradition but is reimagined in a modern context, worn with a hand-pleated wool skirt crafted using the “cardboard” technique. This use of materials and techniques to create true sculptures on the female body is a clear example of Mulier’s exploration of the body’s space.
Fashion as Sculpture and Commercial Vision
While Mulier experiments with shapes and techniques, he is also mindful of the commercial aspect of fashion. Unlike Alaïa’s founder, who focused primarily on sartorial perfection, Mulier understands that fashion must also meet market demands.
While staying true to the brand’s spirit, he creates garments that not only reflect high aesthetic standards but also appeal to the commercial side of the brand. His designs are not only sculptures but also products meant to meet the needs of the global fashion market.
With Alaïa FW25, the designer has added a new dimension to the collection. He is looking toward the future with an international perspective. The collection creates garments with a futuristic flavor. These pieces reinterpret traditional forms in a modern way.
The Exhibition “Azzedine Alaïa – Thierry Mugler / 1980-1990”
In addition to the runway show, another important event to note is the exhibition “Azzedine Alaïa – Thierry Mugler / 1980-1990, deux décennies de connivences artistiques.” This exhibition is currently taking place at the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation in Paris.
The exhibition is open to the public from March 3 to June 29, 2025. It tells the story of the dialogue between two of the greatest fashion geniuses of the 20th century. Azzedine Alaïa and Thierry Mugler were united by a deep friendship. They also shared a stimulating exchange of ideas about fashion and femininity.
Despite their contrasting personalities and approaches, the two designers always influenced each other, constantly encouraging and challenging one another. This human and professional bond gave birth to a unique exhibition that celebrates the union of their creative visions.
