The Skeleton in the Closet of Origins
Givenchy presented its highly anticipated FW25 collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. This event was not just another fashion appointment but marked a crucial moment for the maison: the debut of its new Creative Director, Sarah Burton.
After Matthew Williams’ departure in January 2024, the LVMH group entrusted Burton with the direction of both the men’s and women’s collections, aiming to lead Givenchy into a new era of sophistication and innovation.
Who is Sarah Burton?
Sarah Burton is a designer with a solid background and a brilliant career. Born in Macclesfield, she began her studies in Manchester before moving to London, where she attended the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, graduating in 1997.
Her entry into the world of high fashion came in 1996 when she joined Alexander McQueen. Her talent and dedication quickly led her to become Head of Design in 2000, working closely with the legendary Lee Alexander McQueen. In 2010, after the designer’s passing, she was named Creative Director of the brand, a position she held for 13 years, leaving an indelible mark with extraordinary collections.
One of the most iconic moments of her career was designing the wedding dress of the Princess of Wales for her wedding to the Prince of Wales in 2011. This achievement gave her global recognition, solidifying her status as one of the most celebrated designers of her time. In 2012, she was awarded the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for her outstanding contributions to British fashion.
After leaving Alexander McQueen in October 2023, she was honored in December 2023 with the Special Recognition Award at The Fashion Awards, a tribute to her creative talent and lasting influence in the fashion industry.
The Inspiration Behind the Collection
For her first collection as Givenchy’s Creative Director, Sarah Burton wanted to pay homage to the maison’s heritage. The designer declared:
“To move forward, one must go back to the beginning”.
With this philosophy in mind, she sought to rediscover the legacy of Hubert de Givenchy, reviving key elements of his tailoring vision.
Days before the show, Burton shared images on social media of brick-colored paper packages containing Givenchy’s earliest haute couture designs from 1952. These packages had been hidden away, sealed inside a secret wardrobe in his first Maison de Couture.
Burton embarked on a journey to uncover the true essence of the Givenchy atelier, believing that its soul and heart reside there. She focused on fundamental elements such as pattern-cutting, craftsmanship, and silhouette construction, blending the brand’s rich history with modern reinterpretations.
Her vision is built on a captivating fusion of masculine tailoring techniques, known for their precision and structure, with feminine aesthetics, which tend to be softer and more fluid. This innovative approach has resulted in garments that retain the elegance and femininity of Givenchy while incorporating strong, architectural elements.
The Show’s Location
The scenography of the show reflected the theme of rediscovery, transforming the space into an immersive experience. A famous envelope discovered in the Givenchy archives became the centerpiece of the installation, with guests seated on stacks of bound cardboard packages, evoking both the workshop atmosphere and the idea of hidden archives.
Givenchy’s historic headquarters in the Palais Caraman, located at 3, Avenue George V in Paris, served as the venue. This prestigious location in the heart of the 8th arrondissement holds deep significance for the brand, having hosted the debut collections of past creative directors Riccardo Tisci (2005-2017), Alexander McQueen (1997-2001), and John Galliano (1995-1996).
An intimate and highly exclusive event, the show welcomed only 300 select guests, creating a refined setting where attendees could admire the intricate details of the collection from up close.
The Looks of the FW25 Collection
At the core of the collection is tailoring, with a strong emphasis on form and sartorial construction.
The silhouettes are hourglass-shaped, while the skirts feature sculpted hemlines, echoing the elegance of the 1950s. Decorative bows, shaped like large sculptural knots, stand out within the minimalist geometric shapes, creating a perfect balance between sophistication and modernity.
Burton reinterpreted some of the original patterns from 1952, envisioning a woman with an elegant and formal appeal. The coats feature tie-dye hems, while the guêpière dresses incorporate windowed inserts, and the bustiers are masterfully crafted in wool.
Halter necklines and exposed backs reflect the designer’s personal touch, while a dress with voluminous balloon sleeves adds a striking sense of movement. The waist belts, knotted only at the front, redefine the feminine silhouette, introducing a fresh perspective on body structure.
Accessories also take center stage, including rigid baguette bags, mini clutch purses with gold-plated details, and oversized geometric jewelry with luminous finishes.
A Reassuring Collection
The Givenchy FW25 collection marks a return to the brand’s roots, avoiding radical changes. In today’s cautious market, a house with such a storied legacy cannot afford reckless experimentation.
The standing ovation at the end of the show was not just for the collection itself but also for Sarah Burton’s debut, solidifying her position as one of the pillars of contemporary fashion.
Yet, while the collection is flawlessly executed, it still lacks that intangible spark that turns a garment into a true object of desire. But this is just the beginning—there is still plenty of time for Burton to surprise and innovate.
