The secret of contradiction and femininity according to Miuccia
Miu Miu presented the FW25 collection on the last day of Paris Fashion Week.
The Prada Group brand, led by creative director Miuccia Prada, has written a new chapter on the Parisian runways. This time, Miu Miu embraced the dominant theme of this fashion season: the exploration of everyday life. After the “quiet luxury” phenomenon, everyday wear becomes the new trend, pushing brands to propose commercial and wearable pieces suitable for daily life. An approach that pleases both the commercial and financial departments.
Many pieces are destined to become new successes. Let’s take a closer look at the entire collection.
The location
As always, the chosen venue is Miu Miu’s space in Paris: the hypostyle hall of the Palais d’Iéna. The runway, wrapped in a soft yellow hue, recalls one of the brand’s primary colors. The scenography is minimal: no excess, no spectacularization, just stands with bases and remnants of old vintage wooden chairs. After several transformations in previous seasons, this time, the structure of the hypostyle hall is emphasized, attributing value to its industrial architecture. Covered in yellow moiré, the space becomes a bold and unequivocal statement.
Sound design is also meticulously crafted: vintage atmospheres intertwine with more techno and experimental sounds during the show, creating a fascinating auditory contrast.
Front row, as always, is packed with guests: Isabelle Albuquerque, Towa Bird, Raffey Cassidy, Lou Doillon, Rila Fukushima, Amelia Gray, Gigi Hadid, Laura Harrier, Xiao Wen Ju, Oscar Lesage, Suzanne Lindon, Lena Mantler, Sarah Paulson, and many others.
Looks of the Miu Miu FW25 collection
Title of the collection, “Femininities”, suggests an exploration of the multiple expressions of femininity. The use of the plural indicates that there is no single definition of femininity but rather a variety of interpretations, styles, and identities.
Miuccia Prada approaches femininity as an evolving concept, expressed through clothing in a provocative and reflective manner. The construction of the garments plays with shape, distancing itself from the natural silhouette of the body to create new proportions. Curves, a symbol of femininity, are integrated into the garments or designed beneath them. Fabrics are manipulated, folded, and shaped to achieve innovative volumes.
The power of femininity is also expressed in the transformation of traditionally masculine elements. Bras become structures that redefine the silhouette, lingerie emerges in pointelle knitwear, satin dresses, and bias-cut skirts. The focus is on the décolleté, tailoring, and garments that reveal the body beneath through layering and sheerness.
Feminine emblems are emphasized: brooches, bracelets, necklaces, capes, and fur stoles are boldly repeated, adding value to everyday-inspired pieces, here elevated to new heights. Invention lies in simplicity, with a particular sensitivity to materials: felted wool, cotton satin, silk knitwear. Tactility and sensuality take center stage in a study of form and texture.
After seasons of changes, the structure of the Palais d’Iéna’s hypostyle hall once again takes the spotlight, wrapped in yellow moiré to highlight its architectural significance.
Miuccia Prada brings back some key elements of the twentieth century: the pointed padded cup bra reminiscent of the 1950s, the 1990s beauty look with platinum blonde voluminous hairstyles. Skirts and sheath dresses also make an appearance—apparently simple garments, yet made sophisticated through the use of jewelry and fur. Accessories play a key role: knee-high socks, paired with shoes, become statement pieces thanks to embroidered details.
The co-ed show
Liu Liu FW25 does not only speak to women but also includes a masculine component with a co-ed approach. Men walk the runway in bright green trousers paired with worn leather trucker jackets with fur collars, or in heavy wool suits with boxy jackets that move away from the body. The masculine aesthetic is enriched with classic archetypes, reinterpreted with a sophisticated language.
The brand’s secret
Miuccia Prada deserves credit for successfully exploring her own wardrobe within the brand. It’s unclear whether the brand has defined her personal style or if the runway pieces come directly from her closet. What is certain is that every look could be seamlessly worn by her, as if designer and creations merge into one.
The strength of Miu Miu lies in its ability to narrate complexity through simplicity. The desire it triggers is one of contradiction: the human brain is seduced by paradox, making everything irresistibly fascinating. And this is precisely the brand’s secret. Miuccia Prada deserves recognition for crafting an aesthetic that divides, captivates, and, above all, leaves a lasting impression.
