The Art of Colors and Silhouettes
Saint Laurent presented the FW25 collection, closing Paris Fashion Week with a tribute to essentiality and the purity of form.
This is not just another runway show but a solemn conclusion to the fashion month and the presentations of the Fall-Winter 2025 collections.
A Shift in Saint Laurent’s Stylistic Language
Compared to the previous collection, Anthony Vaccarello surprises and takes the Kering brand in a new direction.
He eliminates all decorative excess and focuses on clean, sculpted lines. The silhouette becomes the true protagonist of the collection, built around an inverted triangle, with broad, sculpted shoulders crafted with precision. They are not padded but molded with rigor, just like the backlit onyx that dominates the show’s set.
Sculptural Lines and Structured Forms
The forms on the runway are sculptural. The finale is dominated by bell-shaped gowns, while the classic blousonreturns, this time in leather, giving an aura of modern strength.
Once again, Vaccarello demonstrates his ability to reinterpret the maison’s heritage, maintaining a balance between sartorial rigor and innovation. The approach is essential yet highly curated: every detail is designed to enhance the garment’s structure and the body’s movement.
The Triumph of Color: A Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent
If the FW25 collection stands out for its purity of form, it also surprises with its bold color palette, a clear tribute to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent, who always made color a distinctive element.
Intense and vibrant shades dominate the runway: coral, fuchsia, emerald, teal, ochre, amethyst. These colors dictate the collection’s rhythm and are paired with exquisite materials. Technical and luxurious fabrics blend, such as stretch jersey and guipure lace.
The cigaline silk, a key element in the smoking shorts of the 1960s, is reinterpreted with a plasticity reminiscent of silicone, alternating between wild and botanical effects. Decorations do not disappear, but transform into monochrome lace dresses with long sleeves and fluid silhouettes. Animal prints and floral motifs emerge on silicon-treated fabrics, creating a visually and texturally surprising effect.
A Hypnotic Scenography for the Show
The stage design perfectly reflects the collection’s aesthetic. The location is oval-shaped, with backlit onyx, enveloping the audience in an intimate and sophisticated atmosphere. Warm, soft lighting illuminates only the runway, while everything else remains in shadow, creating an evocative contrast.
The models walk with determination, powerful, enigmatic, and sensual, embodying the maison’s spirit with a magnetic presence.
A Front Row of Icons
The FW25 Saint Laurent show closes with an exceptional front row.
Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, and Linda Evangelista sit in the front row, witnessing the maison’s timeless elegance. The event takes on an even more solemn dimension, confirming Saint Laurent as a pillar of international fashion.
Few Pieces, Many Variations
The collection revolves around a few key pieces, reinterpreted in multiple variations.
It starts with a short coat with a low belt, concealing the fastening, followed by a high-collared jacket, paired with a stone-washed pencil skirt. Then comes the leather blouson, and a Klein blue lace dress, marking Bella Hadid’spassage to the powerful voice of Nina Simone.
The grand finale is a tribute to evening wear, with voluminous, flowing gowns, paired with aviator jackets in earthy tones.
Accessories are kept to a minimum but chosen with precision: leather gloves, curved stilettos adorned with satin roses, while blouses with back bows reinvent the classic pussy bow, adding a touch of sophisticated romanticism.
A Reflection on the Future of Fashion
With this show, a fashion month full of questions comes to an end. Trends for the next season remain uncertain, and the period is not the most prosperous for the industry.
Few shows have truly left a mark.
Perhaps the most memorable moment of Fashion Week was not on the runway but among the audience: the pigeon at the Chanel show, an ironic and viral episode that sparked reflections on fashion’s role in today’s world.
Today, the only thing truly volatile is no longer the trends, but the fashion houses’ finances.
