A Day at the Theater
Dries van Noten FW25 – The Paris Fashion Week in March 2025 marked a remarkable event in the fashion world with the official debut of Julian Klausner as the new creative director of Dries Van Noten. This brand, renowned for its refined aesthetic and ability to blend tradition with innovation, underwent a significant change with the departure of its founder, Dries Van Noten, who had led the house for an impressive 38 years. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week, was the perfect occasion to see how Klausner would interpret the founder’s legacy and, at the same time, give a fresh face to the brand.
In 2018, the brand was acquired by the Spanish group Puig, marking the beginning of a new chapter in the house’s history. The transition to Klausner sparked great curiosity, and expectations were high. How would he reinterpret the vision of Dries Van Noten? The answer came, and it did not disappoint. Klausner managed to respect the brand’s language and philosophy, while also introducing new dimensions, seamlessly merging the past and the future in a collection that is destined to become a new classic.
A Journey Through the Archive and Klausner’s Childhood
For Klausner, fashion has always been about emotion. His approach to creation is not only technical but rooted in a deep search for sensations. From a young age, he enjoyed combining fabrics and materials to discover how they could evoke a feeling or reaction. This passion for creativity and emotion shaped his journey as a designer and is now at the core of his vision for Dries Van Noten. It’s not just about creating garments but about crafting experiences that speak directly to people’s hearts.
Klausner chose to explore not only the brand’s archives but also his personal history to infuse the collection with a profound authenticity. This is how garments that are not simply clothes but true artistic statements emerge, able to communicate without words. With his approach, Klausner blended couture with the desire to express emotions through fabric, an element that continues to define Dries Van Noten’s aesthetic.
A Theatrical Setting: Palais Garnier and Opera Inspirations
Dries van Noten FW25 took place in a venue that perfectly embodies the concept of drama and elegance: the Palais Garnier, the famous opera house in Paris. Located in the 9th arrondissement of the French capital, the Palais Garnier was the city’s main theater until 1989 and also the home of the Paris Opera Ballet. This location was chosen for its deep connection to the world of opera, a central influence on Klausner’s creative vision for the collection. Opera is a realm of intensity and theatricality, and it perfectly aligns with the philosophy of Dries Van Noten, which has always been focused on creating garments that reflect sensitive and profound worlds.
The connection between the show and the world of opera is evident in every detail of the collection. The fabrics, colors, and decorative elements all recall theatrical imagery, from velvets and jacquards reminiscent of stage carpets to soft fringes and tassels that seem to come straight out of a set design. These elements not only pay homage to the world of art and culture but are reinterpreted in a modern key, creating a perfect balance between tradition and innovation.
The Allure of Tailoring and the Energy of Novelty
Dries van Noten FW25 opened with an imposing long wool coat featuring exposed seams. This was followed by a series of looks characterized by a structured and rigorous silhouette. Pieces such as minimalist blazers, dramatic capes, and exotic leather belts dominated the runway. They created a perfect contrast between elegance and practicality. Klausner’s styling choices were not random; they aimed to express a tension between the rigor of tailoring and the fluidity of materials, a theme that runs throughout the collection.
Among the standout elements were the brand’s traditional printed motifs, which were transformed into muted stripes. This change offered a more subdued and refined appearance. Other stylistic moves, such as layered mini skirts paired with oversized coats, injected a new energy into the collection. These changes effectively established a new language for Dries Van Noten. The collection captured a fresh vision while never abandoning the quality and research that have always been at the heart of the brand.
Among the novelties, Klausner also introduced double-breasted blazers and silk jackets, made from polka dot and geometric fabrics. These pieces added a contemporary edge to the collection. There were also references to the ethnographic roots of Dries Van Noten, with elements such as snake leather obi belts, tuxedo sashes, and African-inspired details. These enriched the looks, offering a more layered view of the brand.
Dries van Noten FW25: Drapery Art and Intense Color Palette
Another key aspect of the collection was the focus on drapery and matelassé gathers. These details gave birth to sophisticated and dynamic garments. Decorative elements typical of the opera reappeared, not only in the materials but also in the way Klausner reinterpreted them. Velvets, jacquard carpets, tassels, and soft fringes created a theatrical and enveloping atmosphere. There was a play of contrasts between lightness and tailoring, which enriched the collection.
The color palette was conceived as a sort of musical crescendo. Shades of blue, purple, and green alternated harmoniously, creating a visual effect that echoed the drama and emotional variety of opera. However, the show began with black. This was an unusual color for Dries Van Noten, but it worked perfectly to launch the entire collection. The coats with peplum detailing and pencil trousers, paired with enveloping tops and silk scarves, represented the climax of a collection that skillfully mixed lightness and sophistication.
Dries Van Noten’s DNA: A Fusion of Freedom and Innovation
Klausner has remained true to the DNA of Dries Van Noten, which has always focused on more than just creating clothing. Dries Van Noten has defined fashion as an experience that involves and emotes those who wear it. This approach has been maintained under Klausner, who has managed to transmit the same creative freedom. Dries Van Noten’s fashion is not just about aesthetic; it’s an experience that allows the wearer to feel part of something greater than simply wearing clothes.
The FW25 collection by Klausner highlighted the importance of the wardrobe as a form of self-expression. The pieces created are not just garments to show off, but must bring joy and freedom to those who wear them. Klausner has created a collection that offers a new perspective, yet always stays in line with the values that have made Dries Van Noten a reference point in contemporary fashion.
The Future of Dries Van Noten with Klausner
With this collection, Klausner has proven to be perfectly in tune with Dries Van Noten’s legacy while introducing fresh and innovative elements. The fusion of traditional tailoring and theatrical dynamism has led to a collection that goes beyond simply garments, transforming into an experience. With Julian Klausner at the helm, the future of Dries Van Noten seems ready to explore new horizons, while maintaining its unique essence—always blending emotion and sophistication in a perfect mix of innovation and tradition.
