Can the orchestra play without a director?
Gucci FW25 opened Milan Fashion Week 2025 with its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, creating an atmosphere charged with uncertainty but also immense anticipation. The brand, known for its innovations and radical transformations, presented its runway show without a creative director, a void that inevitably raised questions and sparked controversy.
Just days before the show, the Kering group announced, in a brief press release, the departure of Sabato De Sarnofrom the role of Gucci’s creative director. De Sarno had held the position for less than two years, and his exit underscored the sense of discontinuity that has marked the brand’s recent period.
2024 was a challenging year for Kering.
The financial figures were undeniably grim: revenues dropped by 12% compared to the previous year, totaling 17.2 billion euros. Operating income stood at 2.55 billion euros, while net profit plummeted by 62%, amounting to just 1.13 billion euros. These figures starkly contrasted with the more favorable numbers of 2023, underscoring the severity of the decline. Gucci’s underperformance contributed significantly to this result, with the brand reporting a 23% drop in sales. Despite this, the group proposed a modest dividend of 6 euros per share, though it did little to mask the financial strain.
A New Course for Gucci
Runway show took place in a total green venue, as showcased in the visuals shared on social media. The departure from the traditional Gucci red was a clear sign of a new direction, almost as if the brand were closing one chapter to begin another. The intent to renew the maison was evident in every detail. Furthermore, 2025 marks the 50th anniversary of the Interlocking G logo, an iconic symbol that was celebrated on the runway as part of this transition. Gucci didn’t simply look to the past; it chose to rework it, aiming to forge ahead toward the future.
To underline this shift in mentality, international stars and ambassadors of the brand were present in the front row, including Xiao Zhan and Sinner. However, the central element of the show was a group of musicians, an orchestra led by Justin Hurtwitz, adding another layer of meaning to the event. The room, adorned with green drapes and wallpaper, showcased a giant GG logo at the center of the runway. Double GG symbol formed a path, further enhanced by mirrors on both the floor and ceiling, creating a dynamic and futuristic visual effect. The entire set design was an ode to the synthesis between tradition and innovation, two principles that have always defined Gucci.
Looks on the Runway: Elegance and Ease
Gucci FW25 collection moved seamlessly between classic and modern, formal and casual. The men’s looks featured tailored suits paired with high-neck wool sweaters, paying homage to the tradition of the finest men’s wear.
On the other hand, for women, suits alternated with embroidered skirts and tops adorned with metal pendants, creating a visually striking contrast. Accessories played a pivotal role in this collection, helping to define its identity.
One key detail that immediately caught attention was the reinterpretation of the carabiner, transformed into a necklace and also used as an oversized element on bags. This accessory, embodying a rough yet refined elegance, added a contemporary edge to the collection, further emphasizing the brand’s boldness in pushing boundaries.
Other significant elements included glasses with transparent lenses that almost camouflaged the models’ faces, revealing only their expressions. Another iconic feature was the pointed shoes and leather gloves, which gave the collection a sense of luxury and effortless sophistication.
Additionally, oversized clasps made a notable appearance, referencing the famous Horsebit 1955 bag. This bag, an icon for Gucci, made a modern comeback with these updated details, paying tribute to the brand’s heritage while maintaining its forward-thinking ethos.
Color Palette and Innovative Design
The collection’s color palette was broad and varied, incorporating the shades Gucci has explored over the years. From grays to purple, green, brown, pink, and the inevitable black, these colors created a visual symphony that reflected the brand’s ability to embrace both its legacy and its evolution. The thoughtful use of these hues highlighted each look on the runway, underscoring Gucci’s versatility.
Design details ranged from color blocking, which was prominently featured in both men’s and women’s outfits, to a standout piece for women: a disjointed jumpsuit with a large carabiner at the waist. These unique designs infused the collection with a sense of effortless ease, a refined elegance carefully studied and executed by the team behind the scenes.
Continuum: The Passage Toward the Future
The GUCCI FW25 was titled “Continuum”, a name that clearly suggests a transitional phase. This collection was designed to preserve the brand’s identity while simultaneously preparing it for its next chapter.
While no radical shifts were expected, this collection provided an opportunity for Gucci to reaffirm its stylistic codes and reaffirm what makes the brand unique on the global stage.
Each element of the collection was created with the intention of preserving Gucci’s essence without succumbing to nostalgia. Every look, every detail, told the story of a brand not afraid to evolve and face the future with boldness.
Despite the absence of a creative director, Gucci demonstrated that a runway show doesn’t necessarily require a single visionary at the helm. Fashion can, in fact, be a collective composition, an orchestra that harmonizes even without a conductor.
Gucci’s Future: The Orchestra Without a Director
The question inevitably arises: will Gucci be able to build upon this new symphony, continuing to assert itself as a global luxury leader? Or will a new creative director be needed to reignite the magic that has made the brand an iconic force in fashion? If there’s anything to take away from this collection, it is that today’s fashion landscape is complex and continuously evolving. Major houses like Gucci can navigate moments of uncertainty without losing their core identity.
As we await answers, Gucci has entered a new phase, marking a symbolic shift that could prove crucial for its future. The orchestra has played, and now we can only wait to see who will take up the conductor’s baton to guide the brand into its next evolution.
