Functionality, Technology and Movement
International Debut for the IM Men Line – ISSEY MIYAKE FW25
The FW25 collection by Issey Miyake marks a significant moment for the brand. In Paris, during Fashion Week, the IM Men menswear line made its international debut, originally launched in Japan in 2021.
This new line does not replace the iconic Homme Plissé, but rather represents an extension of the brand into new creative dimensions. While Homme Plissé has focused primarily on the pleating technique, IM Men seeks to push boundaries by blending innovative design, advanced technologies, and experimental materials.
Each garment is born from the idea that a simple piece of fabric can miraculously transform, shaping the human body through modern and functional techniques. The collection explores the relationship between technology, tradition, and movement, offering versatile pieces for the modern traveler.
Fold or Sculpt: A Dialogue Between East and West
At the core of the FW25 collection is a philosophical dialogue between two cultures: Japanese and Western, expressed through the concepts of folding and sculpting.
The Japanese Art of Folding
In Japanese tradition, folding represents fluidity and transformation. Pleats, symbols of movement and lightness, echo origami, kimonos, and the ancient artisanal techniques of the Far East. Issey Miyake’s garments live and move with the wearer, in harmony with nature.
The Western Aesthetic of Sculpting
In contrast, Western culture has historically focused on sculpting the body through clothing, reflecting a more structured and defined tradition. Influenced by classical Roman art and architecture, this vision shapes the body, almost as if the garment were a sculpture.
IM Men successfully merges these two philosophies, celebrating the freedom of Japanese movement while reinterpreting Western sculptural aesthetics in a light and functional way.
Inspiration: Flight and Movement
The FW25 collection draws inspiration from the famous 1977 fashion show, “Fly with Issey Miyake”, which explored the relationship between movement, lightness, and fabric.
In the IM Men collection, each garment is designed to offer a sense of freedom and lightness. This vision speaks to the contemporary nomad, dynamic men who seek comfort without sacrificing style.
The fabrics are designed to provide both practicality and sustainability. Notable among them are 100% plant-based nylon and plant-based polyester suede, developed in collaboration with Toray. Innovation and environmental consciousness are thus integral to the brand’s philosophy.
The Creative Team Behind IM Men
The collection was created by a team of three Japanese designers:
• Yusuke Takahashi and Yusuke Kobayashi, responsible for design and textile engineering.
• Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who supervises fabric development and promotes innovative technologies.
Together, the creative team blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques, creating garments that embody the perfect synergy of form and function.
The Runway Show: A Fusion of Fashion, Art, and Technology
Runway show took place in the stunning Refettorio dei Cordeliers in Paris, transformed for the occasion into a minimalist and modern space.
The venue was bathed in pure white, with delicate wooden columns creating an ethereal atmosphere. At the center of the show was a kinetic installation by Tokujin Yoshioka, featuring a mechanical arm that moved a square of fabric.
This representation of the dialogue between craftsmanship and technology foreshadowed the show’s finale, where models raised pieces of fabric to the sky. This gesture symbolized the transformation of the material, from simple cloth to a functional and sophisticated garment.
“To Wear A Piece of Cloth”: The Meaning Behind the Collection
The title of the collection, “To Wear A Piece of Cloth”, encapsulates the brand’s philosophy. Issey Miyake celebrates the simplicity of fabric that, through buttons, pleats, and finishes, becomes a jacket, a coat, or an art piece to wear.
A Finale in Motion
At the end of the show, models ran down the runway holding up pieces of fabric, simulating a light and poetic flight. This gesture celebrated lightness and freedom, which are central values of the IM Men collection.
The Details: Colors, Accessories, and Fabrics
Minimal and Sophisticated Color Palette
The FW25 collection plays with a color blocking palette, including:
Black and white;
Brown and beige;
Bold tones like orange, blue, green, and yellow.
Each color is chosen to emphasize serenity and minimalism, key elements of Japanese aesthetics.
Functional Accessories
Accessories, such as the iconic fabric bags, are designed to be both functional and elegant. The tote bag in fabric, for example, embodies the practical yet creative spirit of the collection.
Innovation in Materials
In addition to plant-based nylon and suede, the fabrics used are engineered to be lightweight, versatile, and sustainable. This balance between aesthetic appeal and functionality represents one of the brand’s greatest innovations.
Fashion, Art, and Technology in Perfect Balance
The Issey Miyake FW25 collection is much more than just a fashion line. It is a poetic exploration of the relationship between body, fabric, and movement.
Each garment expresses a perfect fusion of zen minimalism, limitless creativity, and advanced technology, offering fashion that is both functional and visionary.
This runway show once again demonstrated how Issey Miyake elevates fashion to an art form, leaving the audience in awe of the lightness and elegance of every detail.