Contemporary Past: Art Deco, Pop Art, and Matisse Silhouettes
JACQUEMUS SS25 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s 2025 concluded with one of the most awaited and fascinating shows of the season: the Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Jacquemus. With a bold vision and a perfect balance between the past and the present, Simon Porte Jacquemus chose a unique venue, far from the typical glamorous stages of fashion, to offer the audience an immersive experience. The final day of Paris Fashion Week featured a collection that not only surprised with its visual beauty but also with its more intimate and personal approach.
A Tribute to the Past: Art Deco and Pop Art
The SS25 collection by Jacquemus is a true journey through time, where the past meets the present. For this occasion, Simon chose an iconic location in Paris: the apartment designed by the renowned architect Auguste Perret, located at 51 rue Raynouard, in the hilly district of Passy. This place, a masterpiece of 20th-century architecture, hosted an event that transcended fashion, becoming a fully immersive cultural experience.
Perret is known for his revolutionary approach to the use of reinforced concrete, and this apartment represents a perfect balance between neoclassicism and modern minimalism. Architectural beauty of this space served as the backdrop for a fashion show that captured the essence of timeless design, speaking to both the past and the present.
The influence of Art Deco is reflected in both the environment and the flowing, geometric lines that characterize Jacquemus’ collection. The contrast between modern and traditional elements merges perfectly in the creation of unique and extraordinary silhouettes, which seem to have stepped out of an Henri Matisse painting. Each garment feels like a sculpture, a living expression of elegance and art, where fashion becomes an extension of the body, a canvas telling stories of beauty and time.
JACQUEMUS SS25: “La Croisière” – A Journey Through Time
Jacquemus’ collection for the SS25 season carries the evocative name of “La Croisière,” or “The Cruise” in English. The title is no coincidence, as the entire presentation recalls a journey, not only physical but also emotional and temporally evocative. Simon wanted to expose his vision, with an approach that moves away from the more spectacular and performative runway shows, favoring a more intimate and personal atmosphere. The show takes place inside Perret’s Parisian apartment, a space that feels almost like a living artwork.
In this space full of history and timeless beauty, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented a collection that does not only speak of fashion but also experimentation, creative freedom, and the intention to surpass traditional fashion show dynamics. His statement is clear: to create fashion that transcends trends and becomes a form of artistic expression. The result is a perfect balance between past and future, a meeting between the classic and the avant-garde.
The Beauty of Silhouettes: A Dialogue with Matisse
One of the distinctive features of this collection is, first and foremost, the use of silhouettes. Jacquemus’ garments seem to have drawn inspiration from the famous paintings of Matisse. His soft, flowing forms intertwine perfectly with the sensuality and elegance of fashion. Furthermore, the exaggerated volumes, especially in the bubble skirts and coats with enlarged shoulders, remind us of the abstract and fluid lines typical of the French painter’s works. This type of silhouette not only celebrates the beauty of the human figure but also plays with proportions and the concept of spatiality.
In addition, another distinctive element of the collection is the pairing of vivid colors and experimentation with unexpected formats. Jacquemus is not afraid to push boundaries and play with dimensions and lines. As a result, he creates a unique visual language that blends the influence of contemporary art, particularly Pop Art, with the savoir-faire of Parisian craftsmanship. For instance, the coats resemble the shapes of the iconic Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Additionally, the banana-shaped earrings pay homage to Andy Warhol’s Pop Art. These are among the highlights of the collection.
Additionally, the return to the glamour of the 1950s, with dresses reminiscent of the iconic figure of Marilyn Monroe, added a nostalgic, cinematic dimension to the show. These dresses seemed to have stepped out of a black-and-white film. Yet, at the same time, they were reinterpreted in a modern key, with bolder lines and volumes while maintaining a strong connection to the past.
Footwear and Accessories: Details of Great Craftsmanship
You cannot talk about a Jacquemus collection without mentioning the accessories. The attention to detail is one of the aspects that define the work of the French designer. The pointed, woven heels are one of the most significant novelties of SS25, bringing a breath of fresh air and innovation to fashion accessories. For men, the moccasins with a wide sole, different from the traditional shoe shape, represent a fusion of comfort and design.
But perhaps the real highlight are the sneakers, which mark a step forward in the ongoing collaboration between Jacquemus and Nike. For this season, the brand revisited the Moon Shoes, Nike’s first sneakers, with a yellowish hue and the characteristic Waffle sole.
This created a tribute to the history of sportswear but with a touch of high fashion that only Jacquemus knows how to deliver.
A Memorable Finale: Music and a Journey Through Time
The show concluded with a heartfelt tribute to French music, with the iconic song “Mon Dieu” by Édith Piaf playing. This song choice was, of course, no coincidence, as it represents Jacquemus’ homage to French musical tradition, perfectly blending with the aesthetics of the collection. Moreover, the music added an emotional layer to the show, creating an intimate, dreamlike atmosphere that guided the audience on a journey through time.
The SS25 show by Jacquemus is undoubtedly one of the most significant in his career, marking an important turning point. While hype remains a key component of his work, this collection, in particular, demonstrated that Simon is now ready to embark on a new path. The search for tailoring, for timeless creation, and the ability to defy time are, without a doubt, Jacquemus’ new goals. With this collection, the French designer is certainly paving the way for a new chapter in his career, aiming to secure a place in the world of French couture and leave an imprint that will last over time.
