The Return to the Origins with Peter Copping’s Debut
LANVIN FW25 – The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Lanvin, under the direction of Peter Copping, marks an important turning point for the historic Parisian house. This debut as creative director not only represents a return to its origins but also a rediscovery of the true spirit that has made Lanvin one of the most prestigious haute couture houses in the world. Copping’s vision brings both a fresh approach and a sense of honoring the past, making this collection a bridge between heritage and modernity.
“À la maison”: A Return to Year Zero
The title of the collection, “à la maison,” is a clear reference to the origins of the house. It symbolizes a return to the very beginning, to the year of its founding in 1889. Jeanne Lanvin opened her first boutique in Paris with the aim of creating elegant clothing for her daughter, Marguerite. This marked the start of a legacy that would become one of the most significant in fashion history. With this collection, Peter Copping pays tribute to Jeanne’s legacy while introducing new elements that are in line with contemporary fashion trends.
Copping’s debut was highly significant, as it closed Paris Men’s Fashion Week, one of the most prestigious events in the fashion calendar. This grand finale highlighted the importance of the moment, marking the beginning of a new era for the house. The collection is both a tribute to Lanvin’s heritage and a statement of Copping’s intent to shape the future of the brand.
A Long Journey Through Lanvin’s History
Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, the house is one of the oldest and most prestigious fashion houses in the world. Jeanne, born in 1867 in Paris, began her career as a milliner and quickly made a name for herself in the world of couture. Her deep passion for fashion, combined with her desire to dress her daughter in a refined way, led her to open her first children’s boutique. Over time, the house expanded its offerings to include women’s fashion, becoming a symbol of elegance and refinement.
Throughout the decades, the house has seen various creative directors take charge. Notably, Alber Elbaz (2002-2015) became a pivotal figure, defining Lanvin’s style for over a decade. More recently, Bruno Sialelli (2019-2023) helmed the brand, before Peter Copping took over in June 2024. Copping’s background, with experience at Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga, has equipped him with the technical expertise needed to lead this iconic brand into the future.
LANVIN FW25 by Peter Copping: A New Era for Lanvin
Peter Copping’s task is a challenging one. With his previous experience at renowned houses, he brings a wealth of knowledge and vision to Lanvin. His approach to design combines the refinement associated with French fashion, while introducing elements of modernity and radical chic. The collection reflects Copping’s deep understanding of the house’s history, but it also pushes the brand toward a new, exciting direction.
Copping did not simply recreate the house’s past style, but rather interpreted it with his own distinct touch. His collection strikes a balance between honoring the past and introducing innovative ideas for the future. With this debut, he marks the beginning of a new chapter for Lanvin, one that blends the traditional elegance of the brand with contemporary aesthetics.
The First Look: Elegance and Rigor
The collection opens with a striking first look: a black coat with sharp, clean lines, evoking an immediate sense of sophistication. This is paired with brown leather pants, combining a sense of tradition with modern flair. The beauty look complements the entire outfit, with hair pulled back to emphasize the powerful and confident expression. This opening ensemble not only pays homage to Lanvin’s history but also marks the beginning of a new era for the brand.
Fabrics and Silhouettes: A Dance Between Softness and Structure
One of the standout features of the collection is Copping’s exploration of fabrics. Draping techniques create a sense of fluidity, while the softness of the fabrics enhances the movement of the silhouettes. These elements lend the collection a poetic, almost ethereal quality. At the same time, there are more structured pieces, like the total leather look, which bring a sense of strength and assertiveness. Fabrics like ruffles, fringes, and chiffon create a contrast between lightness and elegance. In certain evening dresses, sequins and open backs capture the glamorous aura of Parisian fashion from the ’20s, reimagined for today’s world.
Lanvin for Men: Timeless Elegance
Copping’s FW25 collection is not solely focused on women. His menswear pieces are just as notable. The collection includes oversized cardigans with geometric patterns and a striking long-sleeve t-shirt with silver mirror embroidery, designed as an extraordinary piece of eveningwear for men. Though the men’s collection is still evolving, these early pieces show that Copping is not only interested in refreshing the women’s line but also in reimagining Lanvin for a contemporary male audience.
A Return to Sensual and Carefree Codes
One of the key elements of Copping’s vision for Lanvin is a return to the sensual and carefree codes that have long defined the brand. He understands that looking to the past does not mean copying it directly. Rather, he seeks to reinterpret these elements through a modern lens. The FW25 collection illustrates this approach, with Copping infusing the designs with refined sensuality and a sense of freedom. These garments are not only about timeless elegance but also about individuality and creativity.
A Promising Start
Although the time available for this debut collection was relatively short, Peter Copping has already made his mark. The FW25 collection signals the beginning of a new phase for Lanvin. While it’s too early to draw final conclusions, it’s clear that Copping has a clear vision for the brand’s future. With this collection, Lanvin seems poised to enter a new chapter in fashion—one that combines heritage and innovation, and looks toward an exciting future while respecting its iconic past.
