The Courage to Free Creativity in Today’s American Market
It’s well-known that New York Fashion Week is not in its prime. The fashion capital of America, once a stage for groundbreaking trends, is currently facing a period of crisis—both creative and economic. In this uncertain environment, Marc Jacobs chose to send a bold message by presenting his SS25 collection through a special program change, one that has already sparked considerable discussion.
Jacobs decided to reveal his vision of fashion during a delicate moment when New York’s fashion scene seems less relevant compared to other international fashion capitals. Despite this, his brand has always been a guiding light for modern women. The bags have become cult objects—symbols of the brand and status symbols, sold worldwide. This commercial success, while rooted in the practical side of fashion, has never stripped Jacobs of his aesthetic. His designs remain bold, innovative, and unapologetically creative.
The SS25 collection serves as another clear indication of how fashion is evolving. Following Covid, Jacobs began a revolution. Collections are no longer mere previews but are immediate—available to be bought straight away. The concept of “six not buy not” has become the brand’s mantra, departing from the traditional model. Unlike what we will see in New York in a few days, where collections will be previews for the autumn-winter season, Jacobs presented his fashion as though it were already ready to be worn. Fashion isn’t a preview; it’s now here, in the moment.
A Show That Challenges Reality
The show took place at the New York Public Library, a venue that aligns perfectly with Jacobs’ philosophy. He is drawn to spaces that carry history, gravitas, and a sense of narrative. The front row was filled with well-known faces, including Tracee Ellis Ross, Lisa Rinna, Nicky Hilton, Bowen Yang, Jessie Reyes, and the legendary Anna Sui. All eyes were on them, eagerly waiting for Jacobs’ latest creation.
Among the looks, there were no shortages of surprises. The cartoon influences, which have always been present in Jacobs’ designs, were further amplified in this collection. A mixture of bold chic and exaggerated silhouettes challenged traditional norms. Some models looked as though they had stepped out of a dollhouse, with deliberately oversized forms that played with proportions. Meanwhile, the beauty styling, featuring painted cheeks and miniature lips, added to the overall glamour and eccentricity of the show.
Accessories and Details: Nostalgia Meets Modernity
As with every Marc Jacobs collection, the accessories played an essential role in telling the collection’s story. Bootswith upward-pointing toes stood out, clearly embracing an absurd aesthetic. The bags were a nod to the world of vintage coin purses, with their classic metal clasps evoking a retro feel. Among the standout pieces was a leather bagwith a crumpled effect, a departure from the usual polished luxury bags. This subtle imperfect beauty has become a signature of Jacobs’ work.
The color palette of the collection was rich and saturated. Red, purple, and brown alternated with black, which dominated the looks and gave them an elegant, timeless feel. These were paired with geometric patterns that managed to blend traditional motifs with a modern twist, striking the perfect balance between the old and the new.
Skirts and Sweaters: A Fusion of Childhood and High Fashion
Some of the most intriguing pieces included skirts that resembled origami. The folds and inverted pleats came together to create a three-dimensional effect that appeared to defy gravity. The oversized sweaters, with exaggerated sleeves, brought an ’80s vibe into the present day. These were paired with bold patterns, reinterpreted in such a way that they transformed everyday elements into powerful design statements.
One particularly striking piece was a black dress made of three overlapping circles, evoking Mickey Mouse ears. It was both a tribute to childhood and a reminder of the whimsy of cartoons, yet also a high-fashion statement that transcended simple nostalgia. Jacobs has a unique talent for blending the childlike with the adult, creating a bridge between fantasy and reality.
Fashion as a Refuge in Uncertain Times
The SS25 collection arrives at a time of significant uncertainty in the American market. Ongoing tariff changes, political polarization, and economic instability have all contributed to a turbulent landscape. Amid this chaos, fashion serves as a refuge, a space where beauty and serenity can still be found.
Through his collection, Marc Jacobs demonstrates that creativity is a bold act, especially in difficult times. He didn’t just react to the world around him—he chose to upend it. His designs are bold, a direct challenge to traditional fashion norms. It’s as if Jacobs wanted to shout to the world that fashion isn’t just a reflection of reality; it’s also a tool for liberation.
Despite the political and social unrest, Jacobs’ garments offer a vision of a better world. In this world, creativity and fantasy are more powerful than everyday struggles. In a time of conflict and division, Jacobs offers us a glimpse of a future where fashion remains a source of hope and beauty.
