Eccentric British Style, Preppy Aesthetic, and a Versatile Wardrobe
The Mithridate FW25 collection, designed by Daniel Fletcher, was officially presented during London Fashion Week on February 21, 2025, marking the brand’s entry into the Fall-Winter 2025 season.
Daniel Fletcher: The New Face of Mithridate
Daniel W. Fletcher, an internationally renowned British designer, is known for his innovative and sustainable approach to fashion. Born on September 21, 1990, in Chester, England, he studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London, graduating in 2015. After founding his own menswear brand, Fletcher quickly gained attention in the industry for his creative vision.
Fletcher also served as the creative director for the Italian brand Fiorucci, debuting his first menswear collection at London Fashion Week in 2020. In January 2025, he began his collaboration with the Chinese brand Mithridate, with the goal of redefining the “Made in China” concept within the fashion world.
A Bridge Between British Culture and Chinese Craftsmanship
The Mithridate FW25 collection represents a meeting point between British sartorial aesthetics and Chinese craftsmanship. Fletcher successfully merged the stylistic codes of his own brand with the artisanal techniques of Mithridate, creating a collection that plays with contrasts and the layering of fabrics.
The collection preview featured model Alexa Chung, who was photographed for the official campaign wearing a sweater layered over a striped shirt paired with white embroidered shorts featuring the number “3.”
Tailoring and Layering: The Collection’s Looks
The FW25 collection pieces reflect a sophisticated blend of tailoring and layering, key elements of Fletcher’s vision. The designer reinterprets classic silhouettes through the overlay of contrasting materials and patterns.
Color Palette: Soft pastels with bold accents of burgundy and camel. White and black also feature prominently, defining the lines of the garments.
Patterns and Textures: Vertical and horizontal stripes dominate the collection, enriching shirts, jackets, and ties.
Materials and Craftsmanship: Navy wool, leather in shades of tan, polka dot patterns, and handcrafted artisanal details.
The Return of Preppy Style
The FW25 collection reinvents the preppy style, bringing it into a contemporary realm that blends tradition with modernity. In this updated version, the academic look becomes sophisticated and dynamic, with iconic pieces enhanced by unexpected details. Oxford shirts, symbols of understated elegance, are paired with V-neck sweaters, creating a contrast between formal structure and lightness. To add an academic twist, the sweater is expertly draped over the shoulders, evoking a campus vibe that feels almost sculptural. The leather blazer introduces an element of boldness, giving a grittier, more modern edge to a traditionally formal icon.
Yet, the collection also includes elements that introduce softness and femininity, such as beaded skirts, which contrast with the predominance of more masculine silhouettes, making the entire collection balanced and adaptable to any occasion. Each piece is designed to be extremely versatile, creating combinations that are easy to wear, but never lacking in elegance. The end result is a wardrobe that blends formal elegance with everyday practicality, allowing the wearer to effortlessly transition from a more formal to a more relaxed setting, all while maintaining style.
Mithridate FW25: Sport Influences and British Traditions
The collection also draws inspiration from the world of sports, with a clear nod to the rowing competitions at Oxford. The athletic influence is reflected in garments with structured silhouettes and a traditional appeal, reworked in a contemporary fashion.
Oversized bomber jackets evoke a strong masculine aesthetic, while coats with wide collars and tailored ties recall the elegance of academic uniforms. Knitwear, with details inspired by university sports, completes the look, offering a balance between comfort and refinement.
The Mithridate FW25 Finale: A Tribute to Italian Music
The show concluded with an evocative moment, featuring the song “Io che non vivo (senza te)” by Pino Donaggio and Vito Pallavicini, performed by Jack Savoretti in the version “You Don’t Have to Say You Love Me.” This intense and emotional soundtrack emphasized the nostalgic and refined essence of the collection.
Looking to the Future: Eccentric British Style, Preppy, and the Multifunctional Wardrobe
With the Mithridate FW25, Daniel Fletcher has reinterpreted the preppy style with a modern sensibility, giving new life to the great classics without betraying their essence. His proposal is a balanced mix of tradition and innovation, where clean lines and versatile pieces create a wardrobe that easily adapts to everyday life while never compromising on understated, refined elegance. Fletcher doesn’t seek excess but focuses on essential, functional fashion that interacts harmoniously with the past, offering an up-to-date version without being overpowering.
This collection reflects a broader trend emerging on the Milanese runways, where many brands are seeking to revive the beauty of the classics without pursuing innovation at all costs. Here, the concept of a “return to the great classics” doesn’t mean simply reproducing what was, but rather reinterpreting it with subtlety and modernity. There are no drastic or extreme choices, nor elements that seek to disrupt the status quo; instead, a clean, sober style emerges that plays with the harmony of details.
Layering becomes an art that enhances daily life without ever feeling mundane or monotonous. Each piece is designed to be functional and versatile, yet refined, capable of adapting to any context without making a loud statement. This approach to fashion might seem conservative, but it is precisely in this sobriety that its strength lies. With his vision, Fletcher offers a new interpretation of the classics, bringing them to the forefront without force, creating an elegance that looks to the past with modern eyes, always focused on quality and essentiality.
