Collective Fashion Design and the Return of Margiellaism in Florence
MM6 Maison Margiela FW25 – Florence has opened the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo, one of the most prestigious events in the world for men’s fashion. Among the guest designers for the January 2025 edition are MM6 Maison Margiela and Setchu, names that embody innovation and creativity in the industry.
The event took place from January 14 to 17, preceding the Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW25, scheduled for January 17 to 21. This timeline underscores the importance of Pitti Uomo as an essential prelude to the men’s fashion week.
This year, brands are bringing their Autumn-Winter 2025 collections to the runway amidst a challenging climate. The year 2024 was marked by significant turbulence in the luxury market, testing the resilience of the most prestigious maisons.
MM6 Maison Margiela: Collective Anonymity as Identity
Founded in 1997, MM6 made its runway debut in 2012 during New York Fashion Week, later moving to London and finally to Milan. The brand stands out for its unique philosophy: anonymity. No creative director is identified, as the collections are created by a collective of designers, emphasizing a collaborative and revolutionary approach.
Today, MM6 is part of the Italian group Only The Brave, founded by Renzo Rosso, which also owns its parent brand Maison Margiela. Formerly known as Maison Martin Margiela, it was founded in Paris in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens. After Margiela stepped down as creative director in 2009, John Galliano took over in 2014, a role he left in 2024 after ten successful years.
Under Galliano’s leadership, the brand experienced significant growth: in 2023 alone, sales increased by 22% compared to the previous year, despite global challenges in the luxury fashion sector.
Margiela’s Nonconformist DNA
Maison Margiela and its MM6 line are rooted in codes of nonconformity and the subversion of norms. It is this provocative spirit and nonconformist attitude that define the extraordinary beauty of the brand, making it a reference point for those seeking fashion outside the mainstream.
Looking ahead, MM6 will continue to play a key role during Milan Women’s Fashion Week in February 2025, further solidifying its position on the international stage.
The MM6 Maison Margiela FW25 Men’s Collection
MM6’s return to Pitti Uomo, after the 2026 edition, is a major event. In 2006, Maison Margiela had painted all of Florence white, and now its return is in the name of what we now know as “Margiellaism.”
MM6: Not Just a Second Line
It’s important to underline that MM6 is not simply the second line of Maison Margiela, but a brand with a clear communicative and stylistic vision. Today, we know that behind each collection is a collective of designers who work daily to create it. However, it’s evident that the synthesis of it all reflects the message that John Galliano was able to convey in the world of fashion.
A Deconstructed Vision at Pitti Uomo
The runway show took place at the Tepidarium of Giacomo Roster in Florence, a location that has always hosted guest designers. The proposed tailoring is deconstructed, in search of the individuality of the person who will wear the garments. In fact, the collection was specifically conceived for Pitti Uomo. It represents genderless fashion, as demonstrated by the three female models, part of a carefully curated casting.
Accessories and Inspiration
The prêt-à-porter that emerges from this collection is undoubtedly a gender hybridization. Accessories speak volumes: from biker gloves with pockets, to square-toed heeled shoes, to leather bags with studs. The gloves were created in collaboration with Agnelle Helmets and feature functional pockets. These products draw inspiration from Miles Davis, with jazz expected to be one of the main trends in the coming years. Its rediscovery has brought with it the imagery of a sophisticated yet relaxed world, typical of the “cool jazz” of the 1960s.
Musical Influence and Thematic Exploration
Opening with the track This Is Hardcore by Pulp, a deliberate choice, the collection delves into themes of alienation, desire, and the challenges of image and celebrity culture. The lyrics capture a sense of disillusionment with modern life and its superficialities, reflecting on the struggle to find authenticity in an increasingly media-manipulated world.
A Rich Color Palette and Innovative Designs
Distinctive for its variety, the collection spans from outerwear to formal and casual outfits. Leather is the predominant material, and the color palette is characterized by dark and intense tones. Total black and total brown are the dominant colors, with brown expected to be a key color in both the FW25 men’s and likely women’s collections. Completing the palette, there’s the inevitable burgundy or dark red, used for trenches.
Iconic Looks and Textural Details
With 30 fresh and innovative looks, the collection never feels redundant. Prints, such as white tracings that illuminate the garments, reproduce a tuxedo with a vest and bow tie over a shirt, while actual shirts are replaced, when necessary, by turtleneck sweaters. The fabrics present a patina that seems marked by time, with shades of colors that evoke wear and the evolution of the material. Among the most iconic pieces is a rust-colored suit, or a total denim look with faded effects, worn without a shirt, just with a vest and a long tie.
MM6 Maison Margiela FW25: Futuristic Fashion Accessories
Finally, it’s impossible to ignore the allure of the sunglasses, which seem to come straight from a futuristic film. These glasses completely cover the eyes, like a large band, and are sure to become the object of desire, alongside the bomber jackets, which complete the look.
What’s Next for Maison Margiela?
It’s inevitable to wonder what the future holds for the Maison Margiela brand after Galliano’s departure. However, Renzo Rosso, as the visionary he is, knows that MM6 has already sown the future of fashion, and the fruits are already visible.
Because, in the end, it’s always the people who give value to a brand, and MM6’s collective is undoubtedly up to the task.
