Unconscious Fashion: Protest and Play
Moschino FW25 Collection – During the 2025 Milan Fashion Week, Adrian Appiolaza presented his Moschino FW25 collection, marking a new chapter for the brand under the Aeffe S.p.A. group. After taking a rather irreverent creative path in his early collections, the creative director decided to leave a personal and unique mark on the brand with this, his third collection. His vision for Moschino continues to blend provocation and irony but with a more thoughtful and meditative touch, fitting perfectly within the brand’s aesthetic without betraying its roots.
Appiolaza has often stated that there is a common thread between him and Moschino: the desire to create chaos. This concept, which has been at the heart of the house since the time of Franco Moschino, became the starting point for the collection. The element that marks the beginning of the show is, in fact, an iconic dress from 1992, a masterpiece by the founder Franco Moschino.
This dress, form-fitting and deliberately incomplete in appearance, represents the “non-finish” concept that defined Moschino’s vision. The brand’s name is embroidered in the center with strips of fabric draped in a three-dimensional way down the silhouette, giving the dress a sense of movement and fluidity. The inclusion of this historic piece in the new collection highlights the strong connection to the past and Franco Moschino’s constant influence on Appiolaza’s work.
Appiolaza and the challenge of reinventing Moschino
The show took place in a venue that oozed the atmosphere of a party that had ended, with confetti falling from above. This detail was not accidental: the confetti, symbolizing a fleeting moment of joy, also suggested a reflection on consumerism and the apparent frivolity of fashion. The audience, which included artist Neneh Cherry and designers Marcelo Burlon and Luca Magliano, appreciated the mix of fun and provocation that characterized the entire show.
Another important feature of this collection is the collaboration with British textile company Sanderson of London. Appiolaza reinterpreted four of their archive prints, infusing them with a new spirit that led to the creation of unique pieces, where textile tradition merges with Moschino’s modern design. Appiolaza’s ability to “Moschinize” historical graphics is one of the key elements that makes his vision so fresh and contemporary.
A journey into eccentricity and surrealism
Moschino FW25 is not just a high fashion show, but a reflection on the concept of beauty and the deconstruction of traditional tailoring. Each garment seems to defy logic, yet maintains its own harmony and coherence. Appiolaza’s approach is to take the rules of fashion and play with them, bending, subverting, and transforming them into something completely new. For example, one of the black dresses in the collection was literally destroyed: pieces of fabric were removed, creating an effect of incompleteness and disorder that gives rise to a new form. This type of tailoring operation is not just an aesthetic game, but an invitation to reflect on the imperfect and ever-evolving nature of fashion itself.
Another striking element in the show is the use of extra-large volumes. Among the boldest choices is the use of a pillow turned into a hat, a play of shapes and dimensions that challenges traditional tailoring. The presence of frills and materials like perforated husks adds another layer of eccentricity, contrasted with the refinement of rounded-toe burgundy derby shoes. The overall effect is high fashion that dares to experiment and go beyond the boundaries of convention.
Moschino FW25 Collection Accessories: Irony in Every Detail
As always, accessories are a fundamental part of Moschino’s vision. In this collection, Appiolaza created a series of bags and accessories that perfectly exemplify his ability to play with irony and subversion. Among the most surprising bags are the spaghetti bag, the globe-shaped one, and the paper boat-shaped bag. Each of these bags defies expectations and represents a tribute to Moschino’s tradition of treating fashion with humor and creativity. Other notable accessories include lightbulb-shaped earrings, symbolizing innovation, and a heart-shaped bag, evoking the idea of ironic and unconventional love.
A reflection between chaos and hope
The finale of Moschino FW25 was a tribute to the ecological tradition that Franco Moschino has always supported. However, it was done in a deliberately provocative and ironic way. Among the final pieces of the show, trash bags transformed into luxury bags stood out. This gesture reflects the idea of recycling and environmental consciousness. But it also suggests the contradiction between the luxury aesthetic and the social message. To close, an oversized t-shirt with the slogan “SOS Save Our Sphere” sends a clear ecological message. However, it does so with a certain degree of irony, prompting reflection on the paradox of a high-fashion event promoting the salvation of the planet.
The grand finale is filled with symbolism: as the models exit, a rain of confetti invades the runway, symbolizing a party that cannot last forever. Moschino’s fashion, while being a cry of protest, is also a game, a reflection on society, and our relationship with consumerism and the environment.
Fashion playing with the future: deconstruct to reconstruct
Appiolaza inherited a brand that carries the weight of history and the figure of Franco Moschino, but he manages to infuse his personality into each creation. His work is constantly permeated with references to the past, but with a clear desire for innovation. His challenge is precisely to remain faithful to that element of irony and provocation that made Moschino a unique brand. Despite this, the final message of the collection seems to remain an unheard cry, as if the real revolution—ecological and social—were difficult to achieve in the context of such frivolous and sacrilegious fashion.
Moschino FW25 represents a moment of reflection, but also of play and challenge to conventions. Irony, subversion, and deconstruction are the elements that define the brand’s new vision. And while the future seems uncertain, one thing is clear: Moschino, under Appiolaza’s direction, continues to forge a path that blends haute couture, street style, and constant references to the brand’s tradition.
Will this blend be enough to meet the challenges of the future? Only time will tell.
