The Beauty of the Unfinished and the Elegance of Contrast
A new chapter for Prada opens with the FW25 women’s collection, presented during the February 2025 Milan Fashion Week. This event marks the brand’s return to the heart of international fashion, but with a proposal that, upon closer inspection, doesn’t appear fully innovative. On one hand, the runway show responds to the demands of a global audience increasingly focused on contemporary luxury, but on the other, there’s a sense of repetition.
The choice of location, identical to the one used for the men’s show in January, raises some questions. Prada, always an icon of innovation, seems to have chosen to break the rhythm of the two runway shows by using the same set to present both the men’s and women’s collections.
A Runway Show with a Message of Continuity, But Without Surprises
This decision, seemingly original, actually raises questions about the meaning of this choice. In a period when many brands are experimenting with co-ed shows, mixing men’s and women’s fashion into one event, Prada opts to keep the two worlds separate. However, the presentation of the women’s collection doesn’t bring significant changes to the format or set design. The decision not to create an exclusive and innovative event for the female audience might seem like a more conservative one compared to the push for innovation the brand has always represented.
Nevertheless, behind this choice lies a deep reflection on the perception of femininity and beauty in the contemporary landscape. As always, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seem to challenge the traditional view of fashion and the concept of elegance. PRADA FW25, in fact, speaks of a luxury that does not follow conventions, but rather subverts them.
The Looks: Simplicity That Becomes Elegance
Show opens with a series of total black dresses, knee-length, minimalist in design, and almost austere. The garments feature a wide collar and visibly unfinished hems. This deliberately imperfect choice is no accident. It is a declaration of a break with the traditional notion in fashion, which often associates beauty with absolute perfection.
In this collection, Prada and Simons radically alter the concept of silhouette. The female form appears almost deconstructed, with altered proportions that challenge the traditional relationship between the body and the garment. The unfinished hems are intentionally rough, as if the garment is still in the process of being made. This imperfection makes each piece unique, giving the look a sense of dynamism.
The collection also stands out for its use of atypical materials. The fabrics, while maintaining a certain elegance, depart from traditional tailoring to embrace a more innovative and experimental aesthetic. It is a modern interpretation of fashion, where beauty is not tied to the perfection of details, but rather to the ability to express something new, something unprecedented. The final effect is that of clothes that seem to come to life through movement, rather than being static.
Accessories: The Beating Heart of the Collection
The true strength of this collection lies in its accessories. These, in fact, are the key to giving deep meaning to the raw dresses. Jewelry, bags, bows, and decorations become the centerpiece of the look, giving each outfit new life. The contrast between minimalist garments and opulent accessories is the heart of the collection. This juxtaposition creates a visual tension that enriches the meaning of each piece. The creative duo Prada-Simons seems to emphasize how garments are no longer just containers of beauty, but their essence changes depending on the interaction with the accessories. Bows, elegant bags, and luxurious jewelry are elements that elevate a look that would otherwise be almost austere, but thanks to these details, acquires a new meaning.
Furthermore, it’s important to note that accessories have always been one of the most profitable elements for Prada, contributing significantly to the brand’s sales. The focus on them is therefore no coincidence, but rather a well-thought-out marketing strategy designed to capitalize on what makes the brand instantly recognizable in the fashion world.
Iconic Coats and Details That Tell a Story
Among the most emblematic pieces of the collection are the iconic coats, long-standing staples in Prada’s DNA. In this season, the coats are enhanced with fur details and decorative pins that add a touch of sophistication. However, these elements are never excessive, but rather fit into a play of contrasts that characterizes the entire collection. The large bows, big buttons, and sack dresses are precisely cut to emphasize the female figure, but never in a conventional manner.
Another striking detail is the drawn-on eyebrows with a sharp line, reminiscent of the glamour of 1950s stars like Bette Davis or Joan Crawford. It’s a nod to timeless glamour, but reinterpreted in a contemporary key. The overall look is that of raw glamour—rough, but never lacking elegance. Clothes always maintain a certain refinement, despite their apparent simplicity. The creases on the skin, the raw cuts, and the folds of the garments evoke a sense of beauty that is far from artificial perfection and embraces a more authentic naturalness.
Garment as a Means of Exploration
Another interesting aspect of the FW25 collection is the reflection on the role of the garment in modern society. Prada and Simons seem to want to free the garment from its traditional conventions, giving it the chance to explore new solutions. The garment is no longer a rigid piece, but rather something fluid, constantly evolving. Shirt can be worn with jeans, while the pencil skirts, deliberately unfinished and inspired by pajamas, embody a more liberated and relaxed vision of femininity. Idea of a perfect garment is lost, replaced by a more informal, yet still elegant, approach.
Front Row: Stars and Celebrations of Glamour
The front row of the show is always an important indicator of a brand’s global appeal. On this occasion, among the most famous faces was singer Elodie, who caught attention with her white dress and large black “fly” glasses. Her presence demonstrates how Prada has solidified its position not only in the fashion world but also in the world of entertainment and pop culture.
A New Success for Prada, but with Some Doubts
The FW25 collection by Prada is undoubtedly a new success for the brand, which continues to grow, especially thanks to the Miu Miu line. However, the decision not to organize a co-ed event but to separate the men’s and women’s shows using the same set raises some doubts. Logistics and sustainability could justify this decision, but it’s hard not to notice that this operation might seem like a repetition rather than true innovation. In a world where fashion evolves rapidly, it might be time for Prada to rethink some of its strategic choices if it wants to continue being a reference point in the luxury universe.
Between Perfection and Uncertainty: Prada’s Journey in Fashion 2025
The FW25 collection by Prada is an important chapter in the brand’s history, but not without contradictions. Despite its beauty and the strength of the concept behind it, the show leaves room for reflection on the organizational and strategic choices of a brand that, while at the forefront of design, might be a bit behind in its marketing operations and runway format innovation. Prada must face new challenges to maintain its position as a global leader in fashion, and this requires courage, creativity, and a more forward-thinking vision.
