A New Balance and the “Sobriety” of Fashion’s Counter-Reformation
Rick Owens unveiled his FW25 collection for women during Paris Fashion Week, offering an unexpected proposal that marks a new phase in his creative journey.
Following the men’s collection presented in January, Owens urges us to simplify the complexity of the world around us, addressing the paradox between excess and the need for balance. In a season where many brands, like Prada, continue their storytelling, Rick Owens delivers a “second act” with Concordians, now dedicated to the female audience.
Creative Isolation and Revisiting the Past
The collection draws inspiration from Owens’s time in the small industrial town of Concordia, where his isolation allowed him to explore new ideas and creative freedom. This solitude became a fertile ground for creating a collection that plays with repetition and variation, concepts that, in Owens’s approach, echo the work of a composer reworking the same melody in different contexts. While keeping a strong identity, the collection evolves through slight transformations, much like a chef tweaking a recipe but using the same fundamental ingredients.
Rick Owens FW25: Leather, Texture, and Discreet Luxury
After his collaboration with Rimowa, the high-end luggage brand, Owens drew inspiration to design a leather jacket lined with leather—a concept he admits never crossed his mind before. This idea, while seemingly simple, emerges as part of a broader aesthetic research. The use of leather both externally and as an inner lining not only emphasizes luxury but also introduces a sense of intimacy. The hidden leather lining becomes a symbolic element of exclusivity and refinement.
Leather and other textures take center stage in this collection. Owens uses laser-cut skirts, garments crafted with artisanal leather weaving techniques, and latex tops, all of which highlight a rich materiality and the idea of subtle luxury. The introduction of high collars on coats revisits traditional silhouettes, infusing them with a sense of protection and intimacy.
Jean-Michel Frank and Minimalist Luxury
A significant reference in this collection is Jean-Michel Frank, the 1930s interior designer known for his minimalist approach and sophisticated use of materials. Frank was a master at employing rich materials subtly, creating environments that conveyed luxury without being ostentatious. Owens, with his sensitivity to detail, draws from this approach to find inspiration in the balance between opulence and restraint. His pieces, while still powerful and distinctive, now engage in a more intimate and understated dialogue with luxury.
Beauty Look: Black Contact Lenses and the Signature Aesthetic
Another hallmark of Rick Owens FW25 is his approach to beauty, and this season is no different. The black contact lenses featured on all the models are a signature element, similar to the red Chanel lipstick seen in other shows. Owens explains that the lenses evoke a sense of vulnerability, reminiscent of animated characters whose eyes grow large when they fall in love. It’s a striking aesthetic choice that emphasizes the designer’s focus on depth and openness, rather than superficial beauty.
A Step Back from Excess and the Embrace of Sobriety
This collection presents a remarkable shift in Owens’s creative approach. If his previous collections were marked by grand spectacles—like the petal rain that fell from the Palais de Tokyo ceiling—this time the focus is on sobriety. The absence of extravagant theatrics creates room for a more restrained, grounded collection. While other designers are grappling with commercial success, Owens’s challenge is maintaining coherence while continuing to offer a distinct alternative in the market. His new direction embraces this balance, offering minimalism and elegance without sacrificing the powerful identity that has become his trademark.
Finding Balance: Commercial Appeal with Owens’s Signature Touch
Although this collection is more commercially viable, it doesn’t stray from Owens’s signature creative vision. His designs are simple yet striking, with coats, accessories, and outfits that resonate with everyday wear while maintaining a clear sense of artistry. Owens creates an unexpected harmony between commerciality and minimalism, moving away from the excesses that have characterized some of the most recent fashion seasons. With FW25, he reaffirms that innovation doesn’t need to come at the cost of accessibility, and that a brand can thrive by staying true to its aesthetic roots.
Consistency as the New Challenge
While many other brands are focused on the challenge of sales and mainstream accessibility, Owens faces a different dilemma: consistency. His objective is not just to adapt to current trends but to remain true to his distinctive vision, offering an alternative view of fashion that is both radical and timeless.
The FW25 collection is a bold step forward, presenting a blend of luxury, simplicity, and innovation. Rick Owens’s direction may be subtle in its execution, but it is undeniable in its impact—proving that a balance between creativity and marketability is possible without compromising on the brand’s core identity.
