The rebellion of Marianne and the art of Scotland
The S.S. Daley FW25 collection presents an explosive meeting between romance and rebellion, reflecting on the evolution of British fashion, blending classicism with boldness.
The brand showcases its collection on the second day of London Fashion Week in February 2025.
Through this latest offering, the designer reinterprets British fashion classics with a touch of innovation and modernity while maintaining a strong connection to tradition.
The Collection: Volumes, Textures, and Contrasts
The silhouettes of the collection pay tribute to British tailoring mastery but with a strong emphasis on experimentation. Among the most iconic pieces are the “Giant skirts“, oversized skirts with geometric patterns and textured fabrics. The contrast between the volume of the silhouette and the painterly textures of the fabrics makes each outfit a true artistic statement.
Prints are a central element: some are hand-drawn, others evoke floral patterns, but what unites them is their strong visual impact. In a perfect blend of romance and rebellion, the fabrics seem to “live” with their own light, alternating between softness and rigidity, elegance and strength.
The Tribute to Marianne Faithfull
Another distinctive element of the collection is the homage to Marianne Faithfull, the legendary singer and icon of fashion and music, who shaped the British cultural scene since the 1960s.
Faithfull, known for her unique voice and her role as a muse of the Swinging London movement, is celebrated with an oatmeal sweater featuring the phrase “Stay Faithfull to Marianne“.
The singer, who passed away recently, has long represented the symbol of rebellion and independence, qualities that designer S.S. Daley has infused into this collection.
Craftsmanship Elements: Wooden Pearls
Another recurring symbol in the collection is the wooden pearls, which had already been featured in the previous collection and return as a connection between craftsmanship and modernity. These pearls decorate not only accessories but also leather bags, giving an artistic and sophisticated touch that is both contemporary and rooted in tradition.
Inspiration from the Scottish Colourists
S.S. Daley also looks beyond the music world, drawing inspiration from the Scottish Colourists, an artistic movement. This group of Scottish painters, active from the late 19th to early 20th century, is known for their bold use of color and vibrant brushstrokes that characterize their works.
Among the most representative artists of this group are John Duncan Fergusson, Francis Campbell Boileau Cadell, and Leslie Hunter. Their works, influenced by French Impressionism, were marked by strong contrasts and vivid use of color, which we can also recognize in the painterly textures found in S.S. Daley’s collection.
The fabrics in the collection appear painted, with artistic effects reminiscent of the Scottish Colourists’ style. Combinations of different fabrics, both in materials and thicknesses, create a visual and tactile effect that makes each piece unique. Just like the paintings of these artists, the interplay of colors and textures brings to life a world rich in contrasting emotions.
Androgynous and Rebellious Style
Another important aspect of the collection is its leaning towards an androgynous and rebellious style. Quilted jackets, oversized coats, and accessories play with strong, sharp lines, creating a harmony between masculinity and femininity.
The rebellion against conventions, a theme that runs through the entire collection, is also visible in the details, such as the beauty look that highlights the models’ eyes, smudged with orange tones, evoking Nordic landscapes and the surreal atmosphere that characterizes Scottish art.
The Front Row: An Exclusive Atmosphere
Among the most notable guests in the front row of the runway show was William Bracewell, the Welsh ballet dancer and principal dancer of the Royal Ballet since 2022.
His presence further emphasized the connection between dance, art, and fashion—forms of expression that coexist seamlessly in S.S. Daley’s creative universe.
The Perfect Contrast: S.S. Daley and the Mosaic of Emotions
The S.S. Daley FW25 collection stands out not only for its aesthetics but also for its ability to weave art, music, and fashion into an emotional narrative. The designer merges two seemingly distant worlds that are strikingly similar in their exploration of reality through contrast: the deep, emotion-filled voice of Marianne Faithfull and the vibrant color palette of the Scottish Colourists. Both references represent a search for authenticity, where beauty is revealed through complexity and the shades of contrasting emotions.
The strength of the collection lies in its ability to synthesize these elements into a unique visual language, where fashion is not just about aesthetics but a powerful means of exploring the contradictions of reality. The contrast between the delicacy of romance and the strength of rebellion emerges clearly, creating a perfect balance between tradition, innovation, and the spirit of defiance.
In this visual journey, S.S. Daley invites us to discover a hidden London, a place where art, emotions, and fashion intertwine to tell a vibrant and complex story. The wooden pearls, now a distinctive symbol of the brand, emerge as an emblem of this ongoing search for authenticity, innovation, and audacity, becoming the true mantra of the collection.
