The Sublime Man of Darkness and Human Suffering
SAINT LAURENT MEN FW25 directed by Anthony Vaccarello, is one of the most eagerly awaited events of the season. It stands out not only for its high fashion but also for the deep message it conveys. The show, held on a special evening outside the official fashion calendar, took place on the same night as Giorgio Armani Privé’sHaute Couture presentation. Despite the competition, Saint Laurent captured attention with its narrative that delves deep into human emotions and existential themes.
As is tradition, the venue was the brand’s iconic headquarters at Rue de Bellechasse, recently renovated through an ambitious revitalization project. The atmosphere that surrounded the show was far from conventional. At the heart of the scene, a series of baroque candelabras immediately evoked Saint Laurent’s Parisian DNA. As the candles flickered, the warm, golden light set an intimate and almost mystical mood for the evening.
To accompany this somber yet elegant atmosphere, the soundtrack, carefully selected by the designer, was Leonard Cohen’s “You Want It Darker.” This song, one of the Canadian singer-songwriter’s most profound, explores universal themes such as death, faith, and human suffering. The lyrics are filled with both ambiguity and depth, prompting reflection on the desire to confront the darkest aspects of life. “You want it darker” suggests a willingness to embrace the shadows, symbolizing those who face the harshness of existence rather than shy away from it.
First Look: The Beginning of a Journey in Darkness
The first look of the show was a statement of intent: a dark brown wool suit, a striped shirt, a tie, and a long overcoat. However, the focus quickly shifted to the long boots worn by the model. These cuissard boots, made of soft leather, rose up to the waist, creating a striking visual impact. Cuissardes, often associated with sensuality, are one of the standout accessories of the collection. They rise above the knee, often reaching the thigh, making them perfect for those who want a bold yet elegant look. The term “cuissard” comes from the French word for “thigh,” referencing their height and the way they accentuate the figure.
While the boots are certainly eye-catching, what stands out even more is the story behind Vaccarello’s vision. The cuissard boots symbolize a central theme of the collection: the balance between light and darkness. The designer takes us on a journey into the “shadows” — the same shadows that have crept into fashion, society, and our own lives. Yet, instead of letting us fall into despair, Vaccarello introduces light, a light that warms and guides even in the darkest moments.
Light in Darkness: A Message of Hope
Darkness, though ever-present, is never absolute in Vaccarello’s world. Light, symbolically present throughout the show, is warm and golden, offering optimism that comes from accepting the darkness. The runway is not merely a space for showcasing garments; it becomes a symbolic realm where the complexities of humanity are on display. The surrounding darkness is acknowledged but not rejected. Instead, it is embraced, understood, and transformed into something beautiful.
This interplay of light and darkness is the heart of the collection, a direct reference to Yves Saint Laurent, the legendary founder of the maison. Throughout his life, Saint Laurent struggled with his own “personal shadows.” Known for his artistic sensitivity and extraordinary talent, he faced anxiety, depression, and insecurities. His life and work were often defined by a deep inner turmoil, which also permeated his creations. His art was always marked by an undercurrent of emotional anguish, blending seamlessly with his remarkable creativity.
Saint Laurent: Darkness as a Metaphor for the Ongoing Struggle
The SAINT LAURENT MEN FW25 thus serves as a tribute to Saint Laurent himself, as well as a personal interpretation by Vaccarello of how fashion and art can provide an answer to suffering. The collection’s impeccable tailoring, a hallmark of Parisian luxury, reflects the ongoing search for perfection, even in the darkest times. While the collection doesn’t introduce radical new ideas, it reinvents classic styles with a modern twist, showcasing the evolution of man and his quest for meaning.
The Looks: From Understatement to Provocation
The garments are structured and elegant, yet there are clear references to the 1970s, blending masculinity with timeless elegance. Ties, tailored suits, and clean lines invoke classic fashion, while the inclusion of cuissard boots adds an element of provocation and sensuality. This contrast between high fashion and underground culture, blending influences from clubs and alternative scenes, creates an exciting fusion. The collection tells the story of two worlds meeting: on one side, the timeless elegance of the tie; on the other, the seductive power of the cuissard boots.
SAINT LAURENT MEN FW25: Darkness and Light in a New Optimism
The SAINT LAURENT MEN FW25 offers a reflection of contemporary society. It invites us not to run from the shadows but to confront them. Accepting the harshness of reality without falling into despair is the core message Vaccarello conveys through his designs. The collection celebrates humanity as a whole, moving between light and darkness, and poses an essential question: should we accept reality as it is, or seek a new form of optimism to face the future?
Once again, Saint Laurent triumphs, blending the art of fashion with deep philosophical themes, offering the audience a collective experience that speaks to both individual and shared struggles.
