The Praise of Slowness in an Anesthetized Fashion
Simone Rocha presented her FW25 collection during London Fashion Week, a journey between past and present that celebrates the value of slowness in an era dominated by speed and ephemerality.
The Fable of the Hare and the Tortoise as a Style Metaphor
Designers often draw from archives or create mood boards to inspire their collections, but Simone Rocha’s approach is unique: she delves into her own memories, revisiting a lesson she received years ago from her principal, Miss Ruddock. “In life, you will either be the tortoise or the hare,” she was told. Rocha chose to be the tortoise.
Aesop’s fable symbolizes the contrast between speed and slowness, impulse and reflection. The hare, confident in its swiftness, underestimates the tortoise’s persistence, only to be overtaken in the end by steady determination. Rocha translates this concept into fashion, emphasizing patience, dedication, and meticulous craftsmanship.
15 Years of Growth: A Collection that Tells a Story
The praise of slowness and Rocha’s steady journey, spanning 15 years, are reflected in this profoundly narrative collection. The Goldsmiths’ Hall, with its grandeur and historical significance, serves as the perfect backdrop, enriching the collection with layers of meaning.
Notable names graced the runway, including Alexa Chung, Fiona Shaw, Andrea Riseborough, and Bel Powley, embodying the diverse nuances of Rocha’s vision.
A Visual Story Between Symbolism and Sartorial Details
The central theme of the collection—the dichotomy between the hare and the tortoise—is evident in nearly every look. Models wore faux fur scarves and tortoise-shaped clutches, while hare-shaped faux fur stoles were draped over shoulders or cinched at the waist like belts.
Rocha’s signature elements return in this collection:
- Bicycle lock chains cinching coats and dresses, evoking a sense of protection and restraint.
- Distressed jackets and coats, transformed into cascades of fabric strips, a technique also seen in dresses, including a delicate pink design adorned with ribbons and bows.
Menswear: Rugby, Romanticism, and Sartorial Craft
For men, Rocha reinterprets classic styles with a poetic yet rebellious touch:
- Ruffled rugby shirts, blending sportiness with romanticism.
- Suits adorned with pearl details, fusing tradition with modern experimentation.
- AÂ mermaid-tail parka with a cinched waist, accessorized with a tortoise-shaped resin clutch.
Current Trends and Statement Accessories
The collection also embraces contemporary trends, featuring total black lingerie, furry details, and carefully curated accessories. Jewel brooches, buckled shoes, and even pins fastened onto men’s socks showcase the meticulous attention to detail.
A Past That Comforts, a Future That Awaits
Simone Rocha encapsulates the essence of her collection with the phrase: “Distilling the past for the present.” Her fashion serves as a refuge in memory, a journey through archives to find reassurance in an uncertain future. While many designers rely on revival and reinterpretation, Rocha stands out for her ability to transform the past into something new without falling into mere repetition.
But one question remains: why does no one dare to take a leap into the unknown? Today’s fashion seems to embody the tortoise of the fable, slow in its renewal, often reworking past formulas with minor variations. While this approach ensures stability, it leaves an open challenge: who will be the next hare, ready to sprint towards the future without looking back?
