The Secret Room of Our Hidden Desires
Tom Ford presented the FW25 collection at Paris Fashion Week, marking a new chapter for the brand with the debut of its new creative director, Haider Ackermann.
Now based in Paris, the designer has taken the helm of the maison under the leadership of Guillaume Jesel, President and CEO of Tom Ford Luxury Business Development for The Estée Lauder Companies, and Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion for the Ermenegildo Zegna Group.
Zegna’s acquisition of the brand included a $300 million payment for a 20-year license covering Tom Ford’s fashion and accessories division, which has historically been less profitable than its beauty and fragrance sector, now owned by Estée Lauder. However, with this collection, Zegna has successfully revitalized the maison, bringing it back into the spotlight with a show rich in intrigue and mystery.
A Decadent Private Club in the Heart of Paris
Show took place inside the Pavillon Vendôme, a uniquely configured venue located in the Vendôme courtyard. Ackermann transformed the space into an intimate and sensual environment, with mirrored walls smudged and graffitied in an apparently spontaneous manner. Carpet and furnishings were dominated by Prussian gray, enhancing the sophisticated yet decadent atmosphere.
The designer drew inspiration from his early experiences working in Antwerp’s nightclub scene, where he was exposed to a world of seduction and mystery. At dawn, the women working at the club would gather to recount their night’s experiences, leaving a lasting impression on Ackermann. This past is reflected in the show, evoking the aesthetic of private clubs and secret hideaways where anything can happen.
A Star-Studded Front Row and Subtle References
Among the front-row guests was Tom Ford himself, seated between Anna Wintour and Jared Leto. His presence was a testament to the mutual respect between the outgoing designer and his successor. The most significant moment came at the end when Ackermann approached Ford for an embrace. This gesture had been missing in the brand’s recent history, as Ford was notably absent from Peter Hawkings’ runway show last year.
Ackermann also referenced the brand’s recent history through a pre-show campaign. The campaign featured nude models posing in front of mirrors, creating a provocative and artistic statement. Additionally, he shared a personal image of himself in bed, holding a copy of The New York Times. The newspaper displayed an advertisement for Tom Ford’s campaign. This could be seen as a subtle nod to the controversy surrounding Ford’s last-minute cancellation of his attendance at Hawkings’ show. The cancellation came after Hawkings made unflattering remarks about Ford in a newspaper interview.
A Collection Defined by Leather and Bold Color Contrasts
TOM FORD FW25 collection opened with full-leather looks for both men and women, a clear homage to the brand’s legacy of transgression. The show’s soundtrack intensified the atmosphere with a mix of Hitchcockian modernist compositions, including Good Night, Day by Jóhann Jóhannsson and Into My Arms by Nick Cave. The former, known for its minimalist and melancholic soundscapes, evokes a dialogue between light and darkness, wakefulness and sleep, in a meditative and introspective atmosphere.
Women’s looks featured sharp, structured cuts, while the men’s collection included biker jackets. Long coats were designed to make the wearer appear untouchable, and the tailored suits featured double-breasted jackets fastened with a brooch holding a white silk rose. Ackermann skillfully balanced Tom Ford’s signature aesthetic with his own creative intuition, alternating between black leather ensembles and total white looks.
Casting was exceptional, spanning multiple generations of top models, including Karen Elson, Edie Campbell, Vittoria Ceretti, Kristen, and Lily McMenamy. This diverse lineup reinforced the brand’s legacy and its ability to evolve while staying true to its roots.
A Beauty Look Paying Homage to Tom Ford’s Iconic Style
The show’s makeup look paid tribute to Tom Ford’s most iconic collections. Models had nearly porcelain-like, pale complexions, which highlighted deep red lipstick and sharp, defined eye makeup. The color palette was mirrored in the collection itself, with bold and sophisticated contrasts: acid green paired with pink, brown with yellow, and violet with beige.
Standout hues included lilac in a flowing, fringed dress and an electric blue inspired by David Bowie’s legendary Freddie Burretti-designed suit. These unexpected color combinations showcased Ackermann’s mastery of contrast and composition.
A New Chapter for Tom Ford
Although Tom Ford remains synonymous with the success of Gucci in the 1990s, this collection signals the beginning of a new era for the brand bearing his name. The key ingredients for a successful relaunch are all in place: libertine sensuality, meticulous craftsmanship, and an aesthetic that is both sophisticated and provocative.
Haider Ackermann has demonstrated his ability to reinterpret Tom Ford’s legacy without resorting to nostalgia, instead projecting it into the future. His debut show offers great promise for upcoming collections, potentially solidifying his vision and influence on the maison. Fashion enthusiasts are left wondering: where will he take the brand next? If this is just the beginning, the future of Tom Ford promises to be bold, sensual, and absolutely unmissable.
