The Sweet and Sensual Shipwreck
On January 28, 2025, the fashion world witnessed an unforgettable event with the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture SS25 collection, designed by the daring Ludovic de Saint Sernin. After Jean Paul Gaultier’s retirement in 2020, the brand began inviting both emerging and established designers to reinterpret its universe. The goal was to bridge tradition with innovation. Designers like Simone Rocha and Nicholas di Felice have led the brand in recent years, but it’s with Saint Sernin that a truly powerful connection has been made, merging sensuality and audacity.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin: A Designer of Sensuality and Audacity
Saint Sernin is known for his minimalist approach, celebrating gender fluidity, eroticism, and the human body. While his aesthetic is more essential than Gaultier’s opulence, the Belgian designer embodies the provocative soul of the brand. He has managed to keep alive Gaultier’s timeless sensuality and daring spirit.
For his debut collection with Jean Paul Gaultier, Saint Sernin chose a unique invitation: a candle and a pack of matches as symbols for his collection, titled “Le Naufrage”. The scent of seaweed, ambergris, and damp wood perfectly aligned with the maritime theme of the collection. This fragrance, in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier Fragrances & Givaudan, captivated the audience, fully immersing them in the underwater, sensual world created by the designer.
Celebrity Guests at the Show
Among the stars attending were Kylie Jenner, wearing a custom-made dress with an expansive corset and a transparent skirt embroidered with waves. Jennie RubyJane wore a light mermaid gown, adorned with pearls that evoked the movement of waves. Aya Nakamura, the French-Malian singer, wore a turquoise corset dress, embodying the Saint Sernin style.
In the front row, Jean Paul Gaultier himself observed closely, seemingly proud of his protégé. Rumors suggest Saint Sernin could officially become the brand’s designer, but for now, these remain just rumors.
“Le Naufrage”: The Sensual and Theatrical Collection
The collection’s name, “Le Naufrage”, draws inspiration from the shipwreck as a metaphor for merging body, mind, and nature. This theme was fully realized in Saint Sernin’s creations, evoking underwater realms with references to mermaids, marine deities, and shipwrecked figures. The designer used archetypical figures such as Undine, Mélusine, Aphrodite, Cupid, Ariel, The Scorpion, The Virgin, The Leviathan, The Narrator, and The Premonition. These created a visual dialogue between haute couture and epic storytelling, reminiscent of Homer’s tragedies.
The corsetry became a central element of the collection, emphasizing the body with boldness and romance. Anthracite latex corsets with crocodile-effect texture, veils, frayed nets, and references to BDSM culture all created a powerful aesthetic. These elements were balanced by a cool-toned color palette, inspired by stormy ocean nights.
Apolline Rocco Fohrer wore a dress featuring a corset with a timber wheel decoration, symbolizing guidance and navigation. Alex Consani wore a red mermaid-style gown, with text across the body, referencing the theme of a shipwreck.
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture: Theatricality on the Runway
The runway wasn’t just a catwalk; it was a true choreography. Pat Boguslawski, the fashion world’s most beloved choreographer, directed the models’ movements, creating a performance that mesmerized the audience. The draped backdrop, now a trend in both fashion and design, added even more theatrical flair to the show. The models’ movements were fluid and sensual, telling the story of an underwater fairy tale.
A Journey Into the Aesthetics of Shipwreck: “Naufragar m’è dolce in questo mare”
This collection directly references Giacomo Leopardi’s famous poem, “Naufragar m’è dolce in questo mare”. In the poem, the shipwreck becomes a metaphor for merging with the infinite and the universe. Saint Sernin explores this theme by immersing into the depths of sensuality, offering a fusion of beauty and transformation.
The collection is both a tribute to the sea and its mythical creatures, and a reflection on the body and desire. Beauty and power merge into a bold statement that is sensual and expressive, pushing the boundaries of couture.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin: The Future of Jean Paul Gaultier?
At the show’s end, Ludovic de Saint Sernin walked onto the runway with the confidence of a model, greeted by enthusiastic applause. He quickly embraced Jean Paul Gaultier, signaling the start of what could be a new era for the brand. Could Saint Sernin be the next creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier? Only time will tell, but the collaboration has already produced a collection that will leave a lasting mark in the world of Haute Couture.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin has found in Jean Paul Gaultier the perfect platform to explore an aesthetic that celebrates the body, sensuality, and theatricality. His collection, which explores shipwrecks and the sea as metaphors for a deep journey into the unconscious, was one of the most captivating and seductive of the season.
