The Cry of Refinement
On Sunday of London Fashion Week 2025, renowned designer Erdem Moralioglu presented his FW25 collection, a tribute to art and craftsmanship. In a week marked by experimentation and breaks with the past, Erdem stands out for his sophisticated and cultured approach, offering a refuge of elegance amidst a disruptive context.
Erdem FW25: The Collaboration with Kaye Donachie
One of the distinctive elements of the FW25 collection is the collaboration with painter Kaye Donachie. Known for her figurative paintings with dreamlike atmospheres, Donachie contributed to creating unique pictorial textures that transform into high couture fabrics.
The relationship between Moralioglu and Donachie began during the designer’s studies at the Royal College of Art, when he commissioned the artist to paint a portrait of his late mother. Years later, their creative meeting materialized in a collection that explores femininity through visual archetypes and evocative brushstrokes.
The Scottish artist’s works are characterized by the use of soft, dreamy colors, capable of conveying deep emotions. Her female figures seem suspended between reality and imagination, drawing on elements of psychedelia and drawing inspiration from historical women of countercultures and utopian movements. This fusion of fashion and art gives the garments an almost ethereal aura.
The Iconic Location: The Great Court of the British Museum
To emphasize the cultural importance of the FW25 collection, the venue chosen was the Great Court of the British Museum. This monumental space, designed by Norman Foster, is not only an architectural symbol of London but also a profound source of inspiration for Erdem. The show culminates in a spectacular finale, with models ascending the staircase around the Panizzi Library, evoking a sense of timelessness and a connection to the history of art and fashion.
British Museum, with over six million annual visitors, is one of the most important museums in the world, on par with the Louvre and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The choice of this location strengthens the bond between the collection and tradition, underscoring the cultural value of each creation.
Details and Inspirations: Between New Look and Edwardian Heritage
The FW25 collection draws from historical references, blending two periods of great elegance:
New Look by Christian Dior (1947): ultra-feminine silhouettes with wide skirts and a cinched waist, celebrating refinement and elegance.
Edwardian Heritage (1901-1910): decorative details such as lace and embroidery, long and narrow skirts, evoking an aristocratic and sophisticated elegance.
The floral world, already explored in previous Erdem collections, finds new expression through flowers with dangling threads and iconic accessories such as the Bloom Bag, featuring a sculptural metal handle shaped like a tulip.
Erdem’s coats showcase the brand’s tailoring excellence and are adorned with jeweled brooches, while the silhouettes are accentuated by long-sleeved dresses and two-piece outfits with cropped tops.
Erdem FW25: The Cry of Refinement
In a rebellious London, where new generations emerge with boldness and nonconformity, Erdem offers a vision of cultured and sophisticated elegance. The designer proves that beauty does not need to shout to assert itself: true luxury can lie in silence and the care of details.
The FW25 collection by Erdem is a celebration of tailoring, art, and timeless femininity. A tribute to fashion as cultural storytelling, capable of blending history, innovation, and artistic sensitivity into a perfect balance.
